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How Hong Kong’s cooked-food centres are the heart of the city’s culinary scene – but we must keep loving them, or risk losing them

  • Home to Michelin-star restaurants and Asia’s best bar, Hong Kong also has a wealth of cooked-food centres selling high-quality, low-priced food to the masses
  • Some, however, have fallen foul of the machine of local bureaucracy, threatening jobs, livelihoods – and a unique part of Hong Kong

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A busy weekday night at ABC Kitchen in the Queen Street Cooked Food Centre in Sheung Wan. Hong Kong’s numerous cooked-food centres are the understated masters of the local culinary scene. Photo: Sam Evans
Sam Evans

Hong Kong is home to one of the most dynamic food and beverage scenes in Asia, with 77 Michelin-star restaurants, the continent’s best bar and enough suave establishments serving picture-perfect dishes to keep one’s social media followers scrolling for a lifetime.

Looking at the city through this lens – Instagram filter on, of course – it’s plain to see why at the other end of the dining spectrum, Hong Kong’s cooked-food centres, with their often mundane decor, dull-tiled floors and uniform tables and chairs, don’t tend to get the same kind of attention, especially among non-locals.

In the 1960s, the government was faced with the monumental task of moving Hong Kong’s hundreds of dai pai dong – open-air streetside stalls selling quick local comfort food – indoors amid hygiene concerns and to reduce congestion in the rapidly growing city.

The solution came in the form of huge municipal buildings, constructed to house cooked-food centres with cavernous communal dining areas bordered by hole-in-the-wall spaces for vendors to operate out of, along with wet markets and other community-focused amenities.

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