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Indiana Jones’ Petra has a worthy rival in Hegra, Saudi Arabia

With none of the crowds but much of the mystique of Jordan’s Petra facades, Hegra is a history-rich highlight in newly accessible Saudi Arabia

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A Saudi man walks in front of tombs in the al-Hijr archaeological site at Hegra, also known as Mada’in Saleh. Photo: Getty Images
Peter Neville-Hadley

In 1845, theologian John William Burgon wrote one of the most quoted lines in English poetry: “Match me such marvel save in Eastern clime, a rose-red city half as old as time.”

Petra, his only poem, was written in homage to the well-hidden labyrinth of rock-cut tombs, temples and monuments that was the capital of the 3rd century BC-1st century AD Nabataean kingdom, and whose remains lie in modern-day Jordan.

Few images are more striking than that of the ornate pink two-storey frontage of the tomb known as the Treasury, seen cropped by the dark slit of the Siq, the narrow waterworn passage through which it is approached. It’s a view familiar to many from the climax of the 1989 film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Similar to those in Petra, Jordan, Hegra in Saudi Arabia features dramatic, naturally eroded passageways through cliffs. Photo: Getty Images
Similar to those in Petra, Jordan, Hegra in Saudi Arabia features dramatic, naturally eroded passageways through cliffs. Photo: Getty Images
But Burgon would have needed only to look 500km south, across the border with Saudi Arabia, to find a match for Petra. Here, relatively undiscovered Hegra, the Nabataeans’ second city, stands at a point where trade routes met.
It offers the same ornately carved cliffs, just as cheerfully pink, cut into imposing multicultural classical frontages around 2,000 years ago. But having opened for non-resident foreigners only in 2020, Saudi Arabia’s first Unesco World Heritage-listed site still sees just a fraction of Petra’s crowds.
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