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Have you been to the Great Wall of China?

Why the answer to the question of whether you have been to the Great Wall of China is trickier than it might seem

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Clouds over a section of the Great Wall in Luanping County, in China’s Hebei province. Photo: Xinhua
Lu-Ann Ong

Every visitor to China eventually has the same conversation. Someone asks if you have been to the Great Wall. You say, “Yes”, and they ask which bit. You realise, often for the first time, that the question is more pointed than it sounds.

There is, in the end, one Great Wall: a 2,000-year building project begun by competing kingdoms before China was unified, linked and extended by the first emperor after unification, Qin Shi Huang, and rebuilt in the Ming period, from 1368 onwards, into the version everyone now pictures.

What survives is another matter. A national survey completed in 2012 counted 10,051 wall sections, 1,764 trenches and ramparts, 29,510 watchtowers, and 2,211 forts and passes, with a total length of 21,196.18km (13,170.7 miles). Two-and-a-half-thousand years of collapse, farming, desertification and warfare did to the wall what time does to everything eventually: broke it into many parts.

Badaling: the one everyone means

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