Watches and Wonders 2022: 5 new timepieces riding the green dial trend, from the Patek Philippe 5270P-014 and Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic, to IWC Top Gun Woodland

Apr 27, 2022

With Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, whose green dial fades to black on the perimeter, H. Moser & Cie have reinvented fumé with a much more complicated technique. Photo: H. Moser & Cie

As the brand that brought back fumé dials, H. Moser & Cie impressed with the painstakingly crafted Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, which requires 12 firings

Panerai launched the sustainable Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo created with recycled materials, while Patek Philippe cast the 5270P-014 in racing green

Green dials are here to stay as what used to be a niche market has become a staple in regular collections, and the colour is offered in an increasing number of ways and materials. Here are five watchmakers’ takes on the eye-catching hue ...

1. H. Moser & Cie

What do you do when everyone is following in your footsteps? The team at H. Moser & Cie, the undisputed pathfinder in the last few years’ return of fumé dials – must have asked themselves this very question before Watches and Wonders. With the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, whose green dial fades to black on the perimeter, they have therefore doubled down with a much more complicated technique. The dial, hammered to a fine yet rugged texture, is then smoothed with grand feu enamel. This technique requires 12 firings at more than 600 degrees Celsius. By applying different pigments in the firings, the brand achieved a stunning graduated result and this métiers d’art has been truly made the star – the dial has no logo even, with only three simple hands showing the time.