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Josiah Ng

All eyes were on Audemars Piguet and Swatch as we spent the month speculating, then lining up for their unlikely collaboration – but otherwise, the watch world was firing on all cylinders. Phillips concluded a record-breaking auction in Geneva buoyed by the success of independent brands, Omega released a Seamaster Diver 300M for a James Bond video game, Kevin Hart rocked some serious horological hardware at his roast, and brands did not slow down on releasing compelling models in May.
Audemars Piguet, Swatch and a pocket watch

The moment we saw teasers labelled “Royal” and “Pop”, we speculated, and the watch world confirmed, the exciting – and bordering on unthinkable – collaboration between high horology maison Audemars Piguet and Swatch. Although Swatch usually collaborates with brands within its own conglomerate, like Omega and Blancpain, the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Bioceramic Royal Pop pocket watch did gangbusters, drawing queues at retail stores – whether the buyers were flippers or genuine collectors – on a scale not seen globally since the Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch frenzy during the Covid-19 pandemic.
Kevin Hart wore two stunning pieces to his own roast

In the wake of awards season, it may be hard to spot celebrities in high horology, but Kevin Hart is one of the watch world’s consistent exceptions. Comedians gathered at the Kia Forum in Los Angeles for the Netflix Is a Joke festival, where a select few were chosen to roast the comedian as part of the festivities. While the roast itself has been panned for feeling staged and scripted, Hart’s wrist game was undeniable.
On the red carpet, he sported the square Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour in discreet pink gold and black to go with a black tuxedo and beige top. On stage, the comedian wore a more casual all-black outfit accented with – according to GQ – a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/51G-001, featuring an ornate floral pattern with enamel crevices, and a case in 18k white gold.
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction sets records

Phillips is continuing to break its own watch auction records. The auction house announced on May 11 that for the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII on May 9-10, it had set “no fewer than 43 world records”, grossing a record US$96.3 million across all lots. Top of the pack was a Patek Philippe ref. 2523 South America two-crown world timer, which brought in US$10 million on its own, while the Louis Richard Triple Detent Constant Force One Minute Tourbillon Chronometer in yellow gold set the world record for pocket chronometers, and was the third highest lot.

Notably, this auction was a landmark one for independent pieces. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No 18 in platinum and 18k pink gold was the second highest lot, going for US$6.3 million. This was just the first of nine pieces from the brand across the whole auction, four of which were in the top 10 highest-selling lots. The fifth best result was an Akrivia AK-06 stainless steel at US$3.9 million, made by celebrated independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi. A collaborative Naissance d’Une Montre 1 in white gold courtesy of Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour and Michel Boulanger fetched US$2.12 million.
Major releases for May

In something of a departure from previous years, big brands did not slow down on releases in the wake of Watches and Wonders. A. Lange & Söhne released the Cabaret Tourbillon in Honeygold, which in 2008 was the first ever to apply a stop-seconds mechanism to the ever-moving tourbillon. Jaeger-LeCoultre revisited the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual – featuring the Calibre 388 with a multi-axis tourbillon at nine o’clock along with a perpetual calendar – by releasing it in platinum.

Zenith went tropical by releasing a Chronomaster Revival A384 in the model’s signature sharp tonneau profile with a rich-brown tachymeter ring and subdials to evoke tones otherwise only possible by ageing in perfect conditions. H. Moser & Cie followed up its Streamliner Mini models from the Geneva fair with a traditional Streamliner Small Seconds featuring a gorgeous lime-green fumé enamel dial.

Independents have been just as active this month. Bespoke tailor and menswear purveyor The Armoury collaborated with Japanese watchmaker Naoya Hida & Co. on the intricately designed Type 4A-2 Floating Feathers, featuring the motif hand-engraved on the dial. Atelier Wen revisited the Perception for its third iteration, this time featuring the Pequignet EPM03 with decorative finishing in addition to the precise guilloché on the dial and across three colour variants – ice blue, salmon and bamboo green. Horologer Ming also took another look at dials, releasing the 29.06 Peepshow, which alternates the dial between a rich active shift of colour to a deep black mirror as the seconds sweep by.
Omega’s latest James Bond watch goes virtual

Other arms of the Swatch conglomerate were plenty active this month. While the world continues to speculate about who will next play 007 on the silver screen, IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios released 007 First Light, an action-adventure video game allowing players to step into an original narrative featuring the gentleman spy.

Of course, no James Bond outing is complete without the proper wristwear, so Omega released a limited edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph – the first watch in the James Bond Seamaster Diver line to feature this complication. Powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9900, the watch features three highly legible subdials, helped by its generous 44mm case size.


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Timepieces

May’s hottest watch moments, from the Audemars x Swatch Royal Pop to Kevin Hart’s roast

From left: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon in Honeygold; Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop; Patek Philippe ref. 2523 South America World Time. Photos: Handout

The Audemars Piguet x Swatch collaboration caused long queues at retail stores. Photo: Handout

Kevin Hart on the red carpet for Netflix’s Roast of Kevin Hart, in California on May 10. Photo: EPA

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No 18. Photo: Handout

The Akrivia AK-06 in stainless steel. Photo: Handout

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual in platinum. Photo: Handout

Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. Photo: Handout

The Ming 29.06 Peepshow. Photo: Handout

007 First Light is an action-adventure video game starring James Bond. Photo: IO Interactive

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light. Photo: Handout

5 biggest watch moments in April and May 2026 so far, from Watches and Wonders to the Met Gala

From left: Watches and Wonders 2026; Cleguer Inspiration One; Heated Rivalry star Connor Storrie wearing Omega at the Met Gala. Photos: Handout, Reuters

The Luminor Marina waterproof model watches displayed in an aquarium at the booth of Italian luxury watch manufacturer Panerai, owned by Richemont group, during the opening day of the Watches and Wonders Geneva on April 14. Photo: AFP

Cleguer Inspiration One Souscription. Photo: Handout

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. Photo: Handout

Universal Genève Polerouter variants. Photo: Handout

Fleming Series 1 Mark II in Redwood rose gold (left) and Pacific tantalum. Photo: Handout

Connor Storrie wearing an Omega watch at the Met Gala. Photo: Reuters

Paul Anthony Kelly wore a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon to the Met Gala. Photo: AFP

Colman Domingo wore an Omega Constellation at the Met Gala. Photo: AP

Timothée Chalamet has joined forces with Urban Jürgensen. Photo: Getty Images

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret. Photo: Handout

The Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret is a timeless treasure. Photo: Handout

8 stand-out women’s timepieces that took over Watches and Wonders, from Rolex and Cartier to Piaget

Piaget’s Sixtie watch is a prime example of this year’s smaller models, which make an impact with their elegance or else their ornate finishes. Photo: Handout

Piaget Sixtie. Photo: Handout

Cartier Baignoire. Photo: Handout

Chanel Premiere Coco Game. Photo: Handout

Jaeger-LeCoultre La Vallée des Merveilles Reverso One Hibiscus Rosa. Photo: Handout

Chopard L’Heure du Diamant. Photo: Handout

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28. Photo: Handout

Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna. Photo: Handout

Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Galets. Photo: Handout

How diamonds are reshaping luxury watch movements, from Chanel to Cartier

Chanel’s J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon is a limited edition watch. Photo: Handout

Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled the Ruban Mystérieux at Watches and Wonders 2025. Photo: Handout

The Jacob & Co. Billionaire III has diamonds on its case, crown and integrated bracelet. Photo: Handout

The Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Secrets’ bracelet is set with more than 1,000 white diamonds. Photo: Handout

The Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon has solitaire-cut diamond set at the centre of the flying tourbillon cage. Photo: Handout

Space watches, redefined for a new era of exploration, from Omega and more

The Omega Speedmaster was worn by astronauts on Nasa’s Gemini 4 space mission in June 1965. Photo: Handout

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. Photo: Handout

It’s been 60 years since the Omega Speedmaster qualified as Nasa’s official watch for manned space missions. Photo: Handout

IWC Schaffhausen is watch partner to Vast, the developers of the world’s first commercial space station, the Haven-1. Photo: Handout

The Barrelhand Monolith has been designed specifically for use in space. Photo: Handout

A pre-production prototype of the Barrelhand Monolith. Photo: Handout

Why colourful watches are taking over the red carpet – Timothée Chalamet and Tyler The Creator are fans

Timothée Chalamet, Tyler the Creator and Canadian businessman Kevin O’Leary show off watches with coloured straps at December’s New York premiere of Marty Supreme. Photo: Variety via Getty Images

Timothée Chalamet at the New York premiere of Marty Supreme in December 2025. Photo: handout

Chanel’s Première Ribbon Red. Photo: Handout

Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Photo: Handout

Cartier Santos. Photo: Handout

Zenith Defy Skyline. Photo: Handout

Gérald Charles’ Maestro GC Sport Tennis. Photo: Handout

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Watches

An unlikely pocket watch tie-up went viral, Kevin Hart dazzled with luxury watches at his Netflix roast, and Omega released a James Bond special


An unlikely pocket watch tie-up went viral, Kevin Hart dazzled with luxury watches at his Netflix roast, and Omega released a James Bond special.


May’s hottest watch moments, from the Audemars x Swatch Royal Pop to Kevin Hart’s roast

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}An unlikely pocket watch tie-up went viral, Kevin Hart dazzled with luxury watches at his Netflix roast, and Omega released a James Bond special

.css-1mniedq{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;}Audemars Piguet, Swatch and a pocket watch

An unlikely pocket watch tie-up went viral, Kevin Hart dazzled with luxury watches at his Netflix roast, and Omega released a James Bond special

Audemars Piguet, Swatch and a pocket watch