When timepiece customisation turns controversial: stars like Jay-Z and Ed Sheeran spend big to make their Rolex, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet more exclusive – but how far is too far?

Those who sport a unique watch – whether it’s pristine or pre-owned – from their favourite brand wear it with a certain sense of pride. Limited editions are typically reserved for super VIPs, or else you have to pay a big premium on top of the retail price to get your hands on such a special watch. Celebrities often have the star power to work directly with brands to release or at least request production of an exclusive piece, often loudly expressing their personality in the process. Richard Mille has worked with hip-hop and sports personalities like Pharrell Williams and Rafael Nadal to craft custom timepieces, while Audemars Piguet collaborated with rapper and music entrepreneur Jay-Z on a Royal Oak Offshore. Singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran managed to get Patek Philippe to replace the London stamp on the luxury watchmaker’s World Time 5230G model with a homage to his sleepy English hometown of Framlingham. Maroon 5 frontman and avid Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona collector Adam Levine is someone who respects the craftsmanship of collectible pieces, and preserves their designs. He also made horology headlines last year when he had Artisans de Genève rework his gold Rolex Daytona 116508, adding lume to the entire watch dial and hollowing out the piece’s iconic trio of subdials. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Artisans De Genève SA (@artisansdegeneve) It’s not just celebrities, though, who seek customisation options to express themselves, or at least try to create a piece that’s truly theirs and theirs alone. Such moves make a recently acquired “hype” watch – like a modern Rolex Daytona or Patek Philippe Nautilus – stand out from similar pieces already owned by others. However, in certain cases, customisation takes the form of adding diamonds or other precious stones to the case of a watch – a move that brands and purists tend not to approve of. Rolex, for instance, has taken matters into its own hands, suing those who sell pre-modified versions of its watches. In extreme cases, some watch owners decide to gem-set or customise one of their basic models to make them look like limited edition pieces. A certain rapper recently came under scrutiny for claiming he has an original full-pavé emerald watch. He was later exposed when the owner of the one-and-only reference stepped forward with images of the authentic piece. Yet the desire for creative expression on an existing watch design remains, and is not necessarily always seen as a bad thing. Rather than modifying timepieces to resemble limited edition factory pieces, specialist customisers such as Blaken, DiW Manufacture and Bamford Watch Department, all bring a one-of-a-kind touch to familiar silhouettes. “Our services focus on the highest levels of personalisation, whether that’s through the use of unique materials like carbon fibre, custom dials or with intricate design details,” says DiW Manufacture’s Gleb Karlsen, head of marketing and public relations for the German customisation artisan. Blaken CEO Alexander Klingbeil says his services are at heart about the artistry of watchmaking. “Importantly, we don’t sell watches – we elevate them, taking existing models of our clients and giving them a completely new identity through our craftsmanship.” As Karlsen explains, almost any part of the timepiece, including case, dial, hands, bezel, bracelet – and even movement components in some cases, such as the rotor – can be given a new twist thanks to the house’s advanced use of materials like carbon fibre and quartz. In addition, Blaken, also a Germany-based customisation service, will build on existing parts. “We can apply diamond-like carbon (DLC) coatings, engravings, gemstone settings, or even skeletonise the movement for a more intricate look,” Klingbeil says. They also make and replace parts with custom-crafted Blaken Performance Parts that can be used temporarily or permanently, as the client wishes. Clients can also request to have their logos or initials incorporated into designs. While some clients opt for complete aesthetic overhauls, Klingbeil says a popular tweak is simply giving a piece a matt-black finish with a DLC coating. “Personalised engravings, whether for sentimental messages or intricate design, are also incredibly popular,” he says. Indeed, several of the most famous Paul Newman Rolex Daytonas – including a Ref. 6239 – were gifts from his wife Joanne Woodward, the caseback inscribed with the endearing messages “drive carefully” or “drive slowly”. The sky’s the limit when it comes to how much or how little you want to modify the watch’s look, but there is one caveat – that the integrity of the build and movement is preserved. “This ensures that the watch remains reliable while becoming a unique masterpiece. In other words, anything except the movement itself can be customised at our manufacture,” Karlsen explains. “Our expertise lies in the ability to integrate advanced materials like carbon fibre, quartz fibre and other high-performance composites while maintaining the precision and quality associated with the original brands.” Klingbeil echoes these sentiments, saying the aim is to enhance the aesthetics of a watch while respecting its traditions. “Our goal is to add to the artistry while maintaining the integrity and perfect reliability of the original timepiece.” Karlsen adds: “It is important to notice that we are not related with any of the companies mentioned in any way. Our services are provided only at the request of our clients.” Indeed, the first thing a visitor will see on DiW Manufacture’s site is the warning: “Watches that get modified will have factory warranties voided.” To Band-Aid this, most reputable customisation brands will offer their own warranty, and in some cases, for a longer period than the original manufacturer. DiW Manufacture, for example, offers an extended seven-year warranty after a watch has gone through its modification. It takes those who are entirely confident in their style to pay as much as seven figures to overhaul a brand-new Rolex or Patek Philippe. Some customisation services, like DiW Manufacture, will only accept commissions on brand-new watches. However much the original timepiece costs, overhauling it will – while turning it into a truly one-of-a-kind piece – inevitably raise the question of value. After all, how much of the original watch is there when you’re replacing a stainless steel case with a carbon fibre one? While most believe that any work put in aftermarket can devalue a watch, DiW Manufacture’s experience has been the opposite. “[A common] misconception is that customisation devalues the watch – when done correctly, as with DiW’s craftsmanship, it can actually increase the watch’s collector value due to its uniqueness,” he says. Both Klingbeil and Karlsen name the big three – Patek Philippe, Rolex and Audemars Piguet – as the most popular brands when it comes to customising requests. Depending on the intricacy of the requests, it can take as long as two months for delivery from the initial consultation, according to Klingbeil. Still, there are timepieces that even the best customisation artisans believe are better left untouched. “We steer clear of customising vintage or historically significant watches, as altering such timepieces could detract from their intrinsic value,” Klingbeil says.

When timepiece customisation turns controversial: stars like Jay-Z and Ed Sheeran spend big to make their Rolex, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet more exclusive – but how far is too far?

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Some wealthy watch owners seek to lend their pieces even more exclusive identities by customising them … but does it enhance or lessen value?

Some wealthy watch owners seek to lend their pieces even more exclusive identities by customising them … but does it enhance or lessen value?