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Jewellery

How this jeweller is reimagining traditional Chinese filigree in modern pieces

STORYFrancesca Fearon
Chinese jeweller Huimin Zhang with her collection of antique jewellery. Photo: Handout
Chinese jeweller Huimin Zhang with her collection of antique jewellery. Photo: Handout
Jewellery

The Beijing-born artist’s intricate brooches will be featured in an exhibition opening on June 23 at Hong Kong’s Crafts on Peel

The skilful combination of filigree, inlay and various other techniques to shape jewellery out of delicate gold and silver threads – known as fine gold art – reached new heights during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644) and was developed further in the Qing dynasty (1644–1912).

Over those centuries, a number of China’s ethnic minorities developed filigree jewellery ornaments – hairpins, hook earrings and buckles – with their own characteristics, passing them down through the generations until they ended up on today’s market stalls. That’s where eagle-eyed collectors like Huimin Zhang snap them up.

The Chinese art of filigree is kept alive through the passion of artists like Zhang, who has adopted and adapted this painstaking craft to create contemporary jewellery that wins awards and is now featured in the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London. The jeweller also took part in London Craft Week in May.

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