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Priya Raj

There have been whispers in the world of luxury that wellness and spirituality will be the industry’s next guiding themes. While traditionalists in Europe might still be making up their minds about this marriage, it’s already integral in Asia.
“In Chinese culture, the idea of harmony between body and mind [is] deeply valued. People believe that natural materials carry energy and vitality from the Earth, helping restore calm and balance,” explains Sissi Xu, managing director, Greater China, at the Natural Diamond Council.

The convergence of jewellery and spirituality is deeply embedded in Asian culture. In China, for example, jade is believed to have shielding properties, while in the talismanic Navaratna jewellery of India, each stone has astrological significance.
Jeweller Yilin Choo crafts exquisite heirloom pieces from jade for her eponymous brand Choo Yilin. “Across many Asian cultures, jade was as much about spirituality as it was about relationships,” she says. “Pieces were gifted at weddings, passed down through families. They carried stories about the women who wore them.”
Mindfulness, in essence, is the practice of being aware of and showing gratitude for our surroundings. “It’s [the] quiet strength and timeless beauty that make natural diamonds resonate with the modern pursuit of wellness and inner balance,” Xu says. And the idea appears to be gaining importance in fine and high jewellery collections across continents, whether through the material, the design or the story behind each piece.

One recent example that showcases this connection is the Impermanence collection from storied maison Boucheron’s Carte Blanche haute joaillerie range, which is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi (appreciating imperfection) and the art of ikebana (flower arrangement). Boucheron is candid about its intent, stating that “the collection invites a deeper contemplation of our natural world”. Incorporating contrasting materials, the pieces represent the disappearing beauty of nature and our own connection to it.
Xu believes that “for many modern Chinese consumers, jewellery has become part of a mindful lifestyle – something that connects them with their inner selves”. She adds, “A natural diamond, formed over billions of years, represents patience, endurance and authenticity – qualities that bring a sense of grounding and emotional reassurance.”
Perhaps the biggest natural diamond advocate of all, De Beers explored this exact theme in its recently launched campaign, which promotes “desert diamonds”. The natural colouring of these stones evokes rarity and a connection to nature. Not only are these beautiful pieces of jewellery, they’re reminders of our significance – and insignificance – in the world.

Local brands, too, are honing in on this desire for jewellery that signifies more than just adornment. Choo describes it as “a way to honour where we come from, and to pass something meaningful forward”. Jewellery becomes a way of not just connecting with oneself but with generations to come. She also sees her jade pieces garnering greater interest among younger people, though traditionally the gem has been worn by older generations, including mothers and grandmothers.
This interest in old philosophies and techniques has sparked a shift among local designers: Hong Kong brand Qeelin fuses traditional motifs with a modern aesthetic, while other brands like Chow Tai Fook and Lao Feng Xiang look more deeply into the significance of Chinese motifs and spirituality. At London Craft Week earlier this year, Lao Feng Xiang revealed that its Phoenix crown, a design made with over 100 grams of gold, received an outstanding response, citing this as a marker of increased interest in Chinese tradition. In Chinese culture, the phoenix is viewed as a symbol of peace, good luck and prosperity.

An expensive, or even rare, item is not enough in an increasingly discerning age. Consumers need to feel a connection with their possessions, whether through mindfulness – where a piece becomes part of their practice – or through a traditional material or emblem that celebrates heritage.
“It isn’t spirituality in the mystical sense,” Choo says. “[It’s] the desire to remember, to celebrate identity, to pass love forward.” This opens up a world where the emotional becomes as valuable as the aesthetic, especially for clients who see jewellery as heirlooms, not accessories.


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Jewellery

How Asian culture and mindfulness are reshaping luxury jewellery design

Jeweller Choo Yilin’s pieces are about identity. Photo: Handout

Composition No 4 transformable jewellery suite from Boucheron’s Impermanence collection. Photo: Handout

Choo Yilin Hydrangea Bangle. Photo: Handout

The Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi and the art of ikebana inspire Boucheron’s Impermanence collection. Photo: Handout

Choo Yilin Peranakan Flower Jade Necklace. Photo: Handout

Why rough, uncut gemstones are feted for their raw beauty

Uncut gems are having a moment as seen in these creations by Massimo Izzo. Photo: Handout

Massimo Izzo double finger ring. Photo: Handout

Ruth Tomlinson Aquamarine Encrusted drop earrings. Photo: Handout

De Beers Talisman medal and small hoop earrings. Photo: Handout

Ruth Tomlinson Raw Diamond Cluster pendant. Photo: Handout

Fuli x SunChin peridot ring. Photo: Handout

De Beers Talisman large band. Photo: Handout

Ruth Tomlinson Sapphire Asymmetric Cluster ring. Photo: Handout

From Coco Chanel to Dua Lipa, how costume jewellery became a symbol of empowerment

Dua Lipa sparkled in custom Swarovski fits at London’s Wembley Stadium in June. Photo: WireImage

Marilyn Monroe – delighting in costume jewellery in 1955. Photo: Corbis via Getty Images

William de Lillo geometric necklace in sterling silver. Photo: Handout

Kenneth Jay Lane’s signature animal bangles. Photo: Handout

Jean Schlumberger bear pin, made for Elsa Schiaparelli, c. 1939. Photo: Handout

A 1953 advertisement for Trifari’s Coronation Gems series. Photo: Handout 

Rebecca Vallance Cilo earrings. Photo: Handout

Ben-Amun bracelets at Moda Operandi. Photo: Handout

Lié Studio Ada earrings at Moda Operandi. Photo: Handout

Carol Woolton authored the new Taschen coffee table book Costume Jewelry with Maria Luisa Frisa. Photo: Handout

7 most creative new jewellery drops, from Stray Kids’ Bang Chan in Fendi to Chanel and Prada

Stray Kids’ Bang Chan is a Fendi ambassador. Photo: Handout

Collina Strada is collaborating with Awe Inspired. Photo: Handout

Maya Hawke starring in Prada’s Couleur Vivante fine jewellery campaign. Photo: Handout

Gracie Abrams wearing Chanel’s Première Galon watch. Photo: Handout

Fendi 925 men’s silver band ring. Photo: Handout

Homer is continuing to expand its footprint. Photo: Handout

Boucheron is adding to its iconic Quatre collection. Photo: Handout

Magic Alhambra transformable long necklace. Photo: Handout

Record sales at Hong Kong’s autumn jewellery auctions, from Sotheby’s and Christie’s to Phillips

Harry Winston Peacock Brooch. Photo: Christie’s

Earrings by JAR at the upcoming Christie’s auction. Photo: Handout

Jadeite and diamond demi-parure at Sotheby’s. Photo: Handout

Cartier 20.09-carat Burmese unheated sapphire and diamond ring at Phillips’ auction. Photo: Phillips

Why pebble jewellery is popular with designers the world over, from Agmes to By Pariah and Otiumberg

A creation from By Pariah: the Pebble Pendant Pink Opal. Photo: Handout

By Pariah’s the Collector bracelet with Moss Agate Pebble and Green Amethyst Diamond Pebble pendants. Photo: Handout

Pebble-inspired Gia studs from New York-based Agmes. Photo: Handout

Lily Gabriella teams a domed rubellite with marble and rose gold. Photo: Handout

Handcrafted Egg pendant by Sophie Buhai. Photo: Handout

Sculptural, pebble-like shapes balance scale and proportion in the Conie necklace from Agmes. Photo: Handout

The natural elegance of Otiumberg pebble bracelets. Photo: Handout

High Fluid Pebbles and Diamonds earrings by Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge. Photo: Handout

Otiumberg Sterling Silver Pebble Hoops. Photo: Handout

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Local brands fuse traditional Chinese motifs with a modern aesthetic, while Boucheron takes inspiration from Japanese art and philosophy


Local brands fuse traditional Chinese motifs with a modern aesthetic, while Boucheron takes inspiration from Japanese art and philosophy.


How Asian culture and mindfulness are reshaping luxury jewellery design

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Local brands fuse traditional Chinese motifs with a modern aesthetic, while Boucheron takes inspiration from Japanese art and philosophy

Local brands fuse traditional Chinese motifs with a modern aesthetic, while Boucheron takes inspiration from Japanese art and philosophy