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Joshua Hendren

Contributing writer for Style by SCMP, specialising in jewellery, watches and pop culture


Sculptural and tactile, pebbles have long drawn designers with their simplicity and natural appeal. At the London-based label By Pariah, designer Sophie Karg takes an abstract approach to the trend. “I’ve always been drawn to organic shapes that feel both grounding and elegant,” she says.
“The pebble form, in particular, offers a sense of tactility and individuality that aligns with my design ethos – pieces that are refined, modern, and carry a story.”

Rather than a literal interpretation of the stones, she aims to evoke “ease and quiet confidence”. Her Pebble pendant, crafted from moss agate and 14k recycled gold, has a smooth silhouette bisected by a line of pavé-set white diamonds. “It’s minimal yet impactful,” she adds. “It captures the essence of what I aim to create: jewellery that feels personal, elevated and timeless.”
Brazilian-born designer Fernando Jorge’s new 16-piece high jewellery series explores the shape, texture and natural irregularity of pebbles. Among his stand-out designs are the High Fluid Pebbles earrings, made in 18k yellow gold and set with hand-carved brown river pebbles from Brazil and 2.72 carats of pear-cut brown diamonds.

Jorge, who trained at Central Saint Martins in London after beginning his career in Brazil, produces much of his work in São Paulo and sourced the pebbles from a Brazilian park once known for its diamond-rich riverbeds. Their thumb-sized, organic shapes are arranged alongside diamonds in cuffs, rings and earrings, their earthy surfaces offset by faceted sparkle. Some pieces feature marble, carved and set with white diamonds as a counterpoint.

London-based jeweller Lily Gabriella also works with marble, pairing the stone with a domed 16.10-carat rubellite in her Editions cocktail ring. Set in 18k rose gold, the piece is bold and tactile, yet rooted in the natural world.

That material-led focus is also central to Los Angeles-based designer Sophie Buhai. Her latest jewels include several pebble-like pieces carved from jade and finished in silver or gold. The handcrafted Egg pendant pairs hand-carved jade with sterling silver on a simple cord. It’s also available in onyx or 18k solid gold, with choker versions strung on vegan leather.

At Agmes, the New York-based brand established by sisters Morgan Lang and Jaclyn Solomon, pebble shapes have been among the label’s offerings since its founding in 2016. “From the beginning, my primary inspirations for Agmes come from modernist art, natural landscapes and the emotional resonance of form,” says Lang. A visit to Naoshima in Japan – and the sculpture The Secret of the Sky by Japanese sculptor Kan Yasuda – was especially influential.

“Designing with references like these sculptures connects with an intuitive form,” she explains. “I’ve learned to trust the materials to help define shape, texture and create something that’s fluid and wearable.” That process is evident in the Conie collection, where sculptural, pebble-like shapes in sterling silver balance scale and proportion to sit comfortably on the body.
“Combining sculpture with precious materials in thoughtful design and artisan craftsmanship has always been core to my work,” says Lang. For her, it’s a design process led by form and wearability: “Finding balance in weight and scale, in relation to the body is so important.”

At the London-based label Otiumberg, the pebble shape’s appeal is both emotional and visual. “We’re always drawn to organic forms that feel sculptural,” say sisters Rosanna and Christie Wollenberg, the brand’s co-founders, by email.
Their original Pebble earrings – cast in recycled sterling silver with soft curves and an asymmetrical form – sparked so much interest that the brand expanded the line to include pendants, bracelets and drop earrings in gold vermeil and silver.

“As sisters, our jewellery is rooted in connection, so the pebbles felt like a natural form of expression for both of us,” they add. “We actually love them in silver. There’s something about the way the light plays off that surface – it really brings out the sculptural quality of the shape.”
The pair’s visual language draws on that of sculptor Barbara Hepworth, whose work the sisters saw at the Tate Modern gallery in London. “We often refer to shapes in the sculptural world when mood boarding,” they explain. The result is a collection defined by “sculptural minimalism with emotive tactility”.
Next season, they hint at a shift in direction – “more fluidity and movement … with subtle textures and undulating surfaces”. It’s an evolution that aligns with their broader philosophy: “There’s a sophistication in its simplicity,” say the Otiumberg sisters – a sentiment that underlines the growing appeal of pebbled forms in fine and high jewellery.
As more designers return to nature for inspiration, it’s clear this quiet, grounded aesthetic speaks to something deeper: “There’s something perfect about the imperfect.”


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Jewellery

Why pebble jewellery is popular with designers the world over, from Agmes to By Pariah and Otiumberg

A creation from By Pariah: the Pebble Pendant Pink Opal. Photo: Handout

By Pariah’s the Collector bracelet with Moss Agate Pebble and Green Amethyst Diamond Pebble pendants. Photo: Handout

Pebble-inspired Gia studs from New York-based Agmes. Photo: Handout

Lily Gabriella teams a domed rubellite with marble and rose gold. Photo: Handout

Handcrafted Egg pendant by Sophie Buhai. Photo: Handout

Sculptural, pebble-like shapes balance scale and proportion in the Conie necklace from Agmes. Photo: Handout

The natural elegance of Otiumberg pebble bracelets. Photo: Handout

High Fluid Pebbles and Diamonds earrings by Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge. Photo: Handout

Otiumberg Sterling Silver Pebble Hoops. Photo: Handout

Moonstone’s timeless allure shines in Chanel, Pomellato and Tiffany & Co. collections

Jacquie Aiche moonstone pendants show the distinctive soft glow of the gemstone. Photo: Handout

Ashley Zhang Edwardian moonstone and diamond pendant. Photo: Handout

Chanel High Jewellery Reach for the Stars ring, featuring moonstones. Photo: Handout

Pomellato High Jewelry Collezione 1967 Key to the Moon brooch. Photo: Handout

Tiffany & Co. Seahorse brooch, featuring moonstones. Photo: Handout

Boodles Raindrop ring. Photo: Handout

Hirsh London Rainbow Moonstone Venus Ring. Photo: Handout 

 Marli Cleo Rev diamond ring in 18k yellow with white moonstone. Photo: Handout

Neha Dani Tazlina necklace, featuring moonstones. Photo: Handout

Ananya earrings featuring moonstones. Photo: Handout

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Four fabulous fashionistas over 60 – from Martha Stewart and Vera Wang to Grece Ghanem and Gym Tan. Photos: Getty Images; AP; @greceghanem, @californiaistoocasual/Instagram

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Gym Tan was born in Singapore. Photo: @californiaistoocasual/Instagram

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Vera Wang in May 2020. Photo: @verawang/Instagram

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Brazilian-New Zealand model Angelina Kendall is being referred to as a “baby Gisele Bündchen”. Photo: AFP

Angelina Kendall at The BoF 500 Gala at the Shangri-La Hotel in Paris, on the sidelines of the Paris Fashion Week, on October 4. Photo: AFP

Angelina Kendall has walked the runway for brands like Hermès. Photo: AFP

Angelina Kendall learned Portuguese in Rio de Janeiro. Photo: AFP

Angelina Kendall is everywhere in the fashion world right now. Photo: AFP

Creative tourbillons: how Dior, Tiffany and Zenith draw fans like Jay-Z with the coveted complication

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Dior Chiffre Rouge Tourbillon. Photo: Handout

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Flying Tourbillon Azure Blossom. Photo: Handout

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Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone. Photo: Handout

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Photo: Handout

Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold Dragon Mask. Photo: Handout

Fondation Cartier unveils its new location at Paris’ Place du Palais-Royal, near the Louvre

The Fondation Cartier Pour L’Art Contemporain has moved to a new building in the heart of Paris. Photo: Handout

The Fondation Cartier Pour L’Art Contemporain at Place du Palais Royal in Paris. Photo: Handout

A system of movable platforms allows for various uses of the space. Photo: Handout

Artworks by Junya Ishigami and Luiz Zerbini as part of the “Exposition Générale”. Photo: Handout

A work by David Hammons facing the Louvre. Photo: Handout

A painting by Fabrice Hyber and Sheroanawe Hakihiiwe, an artist from the Yanomami group in the Amazon. Photo: handout

A sculpture by Ron Mueck on display. Photo: Handout

Skylights and glass facades create a sense of openness. Photo: Handout

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Luxury

Smooth, tactile and organic, pebbles are inspiring elegant designs that feel reassuringly grounded


Smooth, tactile and organic, pebbles are inspiring elegant designs that feel reassuringly grounded.


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Why pebble jewellery is popular with designers the world over, from Agmes to By Pariah and Otiumberg

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Smooth, tactile and organic, pebbles are inspiring elegant designs that feel reassuringly grounded

Smooth, tactile and organic, pebbles are inspiring elegant designs that feel reassuringly grounded