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Amalissa Hall

Pink gemstones can be considered the “divas” of the jewellery world, thanks to their playful and vivid appearance, which is typically associated with themes of romance, femininity and royalty.
While gemstones such as emeralds and sapphires have been traditionally considered more “elegant” choices for jewellery design, high jewellery maisons – including the likes of Mellerio, Louis Vuitton and Dior – are increasingly featuring pink and purple-hued stones in their latest collections.
Rose quartz, morganite, and pink-hued rubies and spinels are encouraging the acceptance of these playful shades, but what else has influenced the growing interest in these gemstones?
One factor is surely that pink is one of the rarer naturally occurring shades in gemstones and that exclusivity is attractive to consumers. Diamonds, for example, develop a purely pink colour – ranging from faint to fancy vivid shades – due to distortions in their crystal structure caused by intense depth and pressure during formation, according to the Gemological Institute of America. That quality – undisturbed by secondary hues from trace elements – makes them highly sought after.

“Even if it’s a one-carat diamond, it has significant value as it takes millions of years to produce,” says Rahila Refaaq, gemologist and founder of Hong Kong jewellery label Zaha et Cetera.
First discovered in India in the 17th century, pink diamonds have also been found in Brazil, Tanzania, Indonesia, Canada and South Africa, although today the gems are growing increasingly hard to find.
The Argyle mine in Western Australia, which produced over 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds, shut down in November 2020.
“Pink diamonds account for only 0.1 per cent of the 20 million carats of diamonds that are mined from the earth each year,” says Stewart Young, Bonhams’ director of jewellery and head of department, Asia.

This lack of supply has contributed to the global demand for pink gemstones, as demonstrated by offerings in the auction space. A Phillips Geneva auction in May 2024 saw a rare 1.56-carat red diamond, the Argyle Phoenix, sell for US$4.2 million to diamond maison Graff; Christie’s New York sold the Eden Rose, a 10.20-carat fancy intense pink diamond, for US$13.3 million in June 2024; and the top lot from Bonhams’ Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite sale in November 2024 was a 30.10-carat very light pink, round brilliant-cut diamond, which sold for US$2.6 million.
This month, Bonhams’ Jewels and Jadeite sale will offer a 1.08-carat fancy vivid pink diamond and diamond ring estimated at HK$3.9 million (US$499,100) to HK$5 million, while Christie’s Hong Kong’s Magnificent Jewels sale will feature a 4.08-carat fancy vivid purple-pink internally flawless diamond ring estimated at HK$38 million to HK$58 million.
Pink sapphires are also highly regarded stones due to their rarity (the best are considered to come from Myanmar due to limited production), and according to Ronny Hsu, head of jewellery sales at Christie’s Hong Kong, the current trending gem is the Tanzanian spinel, which takes on a pinker hue compared to more classically red gems from other regions.

Dior’s 2024 Diorama & Diorgami high jewellery collection uses Mozambique rubies – including a 7.02-carat centre stone – to complement the warmth of the marquise-cut pink sapphires in a necklace from the Diorama Fruits des Bois set, which depicts the wooded landscapes of Milly-la-Forêt in northern France. Cultured pearls and lacquer complete the piece, adding depth to the scene.
Alternatively, Louis Vuitton’s Splendeur necklace – from the second chapter of the Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds collection – enhances the intensity of its 8.69 carats of Mozambique rubies with diamond pinpricks, yellow gold and platinum, highlighting the house’s iconic monogram flower design.
Jewellery maison Mellerio’s Pierreries collection draws from the romantic spirit of pieces created by the company between 1820 and 1830. The Rose necklace mixes kunzites, morganites, pink opals and lavender as well as rose quartz, finished with 18k yellow, green and rose gold.

“Warmer hues can create a striking visual impact … in a marketplace saturated with traditional colours, such as gold and silver, making them a popular choice for statement pieces,” says Young.
Ultimately though, the popularity of pink lies in personal preference. “Maybe it’s [a client’s] favourite colour, or their birthstone – how consumers perceive the colour of the gemstone is what’s important,” says Refaaq.
“The majority of our jewellery is worn by women and … pink is a popular colour. [Classic] diamonds are more common [in jewellery today], and customers want to have something unique,” says Hsu.
“It’s not only about the aesthetic appeal of trends,” adds Young. “Pink and purple coloured gems [are] linked to spirituality and creativity, and can resonate with consumers seeking deeper meaning in their jewellery. This emotional connection enhances the appeal of these stones.”


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Masterpieces

When it comes to coloured gemstones, pink is the way to go: from diamonds to sapphires, luxury maisons like Dior and Louis Vuitton are capitalising on the ‘divas’ of the jewellery world

The Fortune Pink – an exceptionally rare 18.18-carat gemstone – sold to a private Asian collector for US$28.8 million at Christie’s Geneva in November 2022. Photo: AFP

An internally flawless pink diamond ring at Christie’s Hong Kong. Photo: Handout

This pink diamond ring is estimated to sell for HK$3.9 million to HK$5 million at Bonhams Hong Kong’s Jewels and Jadeite sale on May 22. Photo: Handout

An intricate necklace from the Diorama Fruits des Bois set. Photo: Piotr Stoklosa

Louis Vuitton’s Splendeur pendant, from the maison’s Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds collection. Photo: Handout

Ace the accessories game with Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, and jewellery from Boucheron and Tateossian x Lamborghini

Ace the accessories game with Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, and jewellery from Boucheron (pictured) and Tateossian x Lamborghini. Photo: Handout

Boucheron Serpent Bohème Vintage earrings. Photo: Handout

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in bronze gold. Photo: Handout

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Cindy Chao at the Haute École de Joaillerie (HEJ) in Paris. Photo: Cindy Chao

Carving in chrysoprase from Dior’s latest high jewellery collection. Photo: Dior

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Rare pink gemstones are fast becoming the darlings of luxury jewellery as the colour is linked to spirituality and creativity, something that resonates with consumers seeking deeper meaning


Rare pink gemstones are fast becoming the darlings of luxury jewellery as the colour is linked to spirituality and creativity, something that resonates with consumers seeking deeper meaning.
