High jewellery in 2024: the trends, products and predictions you should know – from classy pearls by Van Cleef & Arpels to maximalist Tiffany & Co. cuffs and glamorous Harry Winston cocktail rings

In recent times, high jewellery designs have been driven by a growing desire for downplayed luxury – illusive “if you know, you know” pieces that pair well with wardrobe staples. This low-key approach to accessorising has been gaining traction for years, fuelled by demands for a more pared-down aesthetic that better represents the times we live in. From the signature toile brossée fabric that comfortably secures Cartier’s Baignoire on the wrist, to Tiffany & Co.’s sleek and sophisticated T bracelets that are decorated with dustings of diamonds, such pieces offer wearers an elevated take on everyday chic. And in 2023, this preference for understated style and high-end craftsmanship is reaching new heights. There’s no getting away from pearls. Enduring and versatile, these organic gems stand the test of time, whether you’re shopping for everyday essentials or that statement sparkler ahead of party season. Le Grand Tour Diana necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, for example, can be styled in multiple ways thanks to an imaginative, detachable design that showcases an extraordinary level of expertise. Elsewhere in Van Cleef’s newest collection, the Dea Eterna clip combines grey cultured pearls with a spectacular selection of pink and blue sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds. Meanwhile, ethereal white natural pearls embellish an explosion of verdant-green emeralds set to chunky chain links on the impressive Perla di Angelo necklace. EmRata’s name necklace for son Sylvester is sparking a personalised jewellery trend Annoushka Ducas has long incorporated South Sea pearls into her highly sought-after charm bracelets. Her Eclipse hoop earrings, which can be ramped up using detachable freshwater pearl drops, have even been worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales. “I love working with pearls of all different shapes and sizes, and constantly aim to surprise and delight by using traditional gems in unexpected ways,” says the designer. Sculpted from 18k yellow gold, Ducas’ Pea Pod charm, which delicately dangles from a diamond-drenched bail clasp, is especially heartwarming. “It’s one of my favourite designs,” she says. “Four freshwater pearls are encased in a pavé pea pod and each gem represents one of my four children.” Cuff bracelets are having a moment, with oversized bangles surpassing dainty, skinny chains as this season’s go-to wrist armour. “Extreme cuffs and big bangles are great because they’re so fun and easy to play with,” says Bulgari’s creative director, Lucia Silvestri, who also heads up gem buying for the Italian fashion house. “Make sure to mix and match with different colours, collections and brands. It’s a great way to express your own unique personality.” All-black outfits are easily embellished with a stack of sculptural shapes by Boucheron and Ronald Abram. Singular cuffs also pack a punch, especially Tiffany & Co.’s Elsa Peretti Bone cuff in yellow or rose gold, silver or copper. Elsewhere, beaded jewellery is witnessing a comeback. High jewellery collections are teeming with twisted strands of turquoise and amethyst beads that culminate in tasteful clasps adorned with slivers of chrysoprase, jadeite and rock crystal. When it comes to styling, more is more. “I love layering my beaded necklaces with delicate pendants for an eclectic look,” says Gioia Placuzzi, creative director of Sicis Jewels. Wearable art? Brooches offer high jewellery designers the ultimate freedom “I recommend matching gemstone colours with outfits for a coordinated look or contrasting colours that make a bold statement. Fashion is a form of self-expression, so remember to experiment.” Make a statement with Anna Hu’s La Rose Rouge necklace, which is brought together using 500 Burmese “pigeon’s blood” ruby beads. Together, these exquisite gems weigh a jaw-dropping 616.73 carats. As if that weren’t enough, the Taiwanese jeweller additionally affixed a fistful of sparkling sapphires and diamonds, which breathe life into the necklace’s whimsical white- and rose-gold flowering blossom. Ruby beads similarly add texture to Cartier’s decadent Sixième Sens collection, including the Phaan ring that’s set with a whopping 8.20-carat, cushion-cut ruby of exceptional brilliance. Triangular-shaped diamonds are employed to allow the light to bounce strikingly off the crimson-coloured beads. Cocktail rings always spruce up minimalist outfits in an instant. “I’m all for wearing cocktail rings to the office,” laughs Ducas. Determinedly joyful editions by Chaumet, Harry Winston and Cindy Chao boast endorphin-boosting excess that’s easy on the eyes and fun to wear. Alternatively, let your ears do the talking with mismatched earrings that command attention. 4 of the season’s most jaw-dropping jewellery highlights to know “Single abstract earrings are fast becoming a trend, and their popularity is being driven by a new wave of Gen Z fine jewellery enthusiasts,” says Zulu Ghevriya, co-founder of Smiling Rocks. “This generation’s aesthetic is dominating fashion right now. They break the norm and want to present their individual personalities, loud and clear.” From the lightweight to hefty, chunky chain necklaces by brands including Bulgari and Pomellato are also here to stay. Weighty chain links in glittering gold resurfaced a few years ago and the latest haute joaillerie collections suggest these necklets are more relevant than ever. Smiling Rocks’ Dvaita collection offers a delicate (and environmentally friendly) take on the trend by marrying responsibly sourced white gold to lab-grown diamonds. “I can’t see this trend going away any time soon,” confirms Ducas. The co-founder of Courbet, Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, agrees: “Chain links have become an enduring style signature. They are feminine and versatile, and the fact that they’re easy to layer allows for maximum self-expression.” Yet, it’s the immense depths of the ocean that have influenced Placuzzi’s Tentacule de Perle pieces – and Sicis Jewels is not alone. Aquamarines, tourmalines and beryls come together for Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue collection, which delves into the New York jeweller’s exhaustive aquatic archives. Elsewhere, Mikimoto’s Praise to the Sea line serves to celebrate various life forms found below the ocean’s surface. Gold chains never get old – from rap to royals, everyone loves a chunky necklace “By incorporating sea creatures and nautical symbols, high jewellers are depicting our increased interest in the environment,” says Placuzzi. “In today’s fast-paced world, there’s a growing desire to reconnect with nature, and sea-inspired jewellery acts as a reminder of the importance of preserving marine ecosystems.” So whether you’re drawn to the timeless elegance of pearls, the maximalism of extreme cuffs, or the glamour of gemstone beads, there’s a jewellery trend for everyone in the year ahead.