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Divia Harilela

Contributing writer for Style by SCMP, specialising in fashion, beauty and lifestyle


Most factory visits can border on dull, but a recent discovery in an industrial building in Hong Kong’s Wong Chuk Hang area left a sweet taste in my mouth. Home to Conspiracy Chocolate, the space hums with the steady churn of cocoa bean grinders and chocolate-enrobing machines, while vats of molten chocolate fill the room with the scent of freshly baked brownies. If Willy Wonka were to set up shop in the city, then this would be his playground.
Launched in 2018, Conspiracy Chocolate may be Hong Kong’s first bean-to-bar brand, but it’s one of many independent makers that are transforming the world of chocolate. While it remains a hugely successful food category globally, the industry is undergoing a renaissance as consumers are moving away from mass-produced confectionery towards small-batch, artisanal products.

“Chocolate has been in human consumption for more than 5,000 years but over the last 200 years it’s become heavily industrialised,” explains Amit Oz, co-founder of Conspiracy Chocolate. “Customers have also become more educated, particularly regarding quality, which is driving more conscious food decisions. These align with the rise of bean-to-bar chocolate brands, which offer a better product without the guilt associated with health and sustainability concerns,” he says.
Mass-produced chocolate tends to include fillers, artificial preservatives, vegetable oil and minimal levels of cocoa (in the US, a chocolate bar can contain as little as 10 per cent cocoa). In contrast, many independent brands focus on celebrating the cocoa bean, which boasts a flavour complexity that is often compared to that of wine or coffee.

“In our case, we make chocolate with only two ingredients, which means we have to find the best beans in the world and process them extremely carefully,” explains Todd Masonis, co-founder of San Francisco-based Dandelion Chocolate. “Every harvest and every origin is different: some are fruity, some nutty and some chocolatey. You can taste the terroir and nuance of each bean,” he says.
It’s common for independent makers to source their beans directly from farms in countries in Africa, South America and Asia. Each region is known for its distinct flavour profiles, so these artisan bars have a distinctive edge over mass market counterparts. For example, Peruvian beans have earthy, fruity and spicy notes, while Ecuador’s are floral, nutty and complex. The bold and fruity beans of Vietnam are also popular and are being celebrated by Asian brands like Vietnam-based Marou Chocolate, which will be opening a boutique in Hong Kong later this year.

“In the traditional chocolate world, beans are shipped halfway across the globe to be processed into something anonymous. We do the opposite,” says Marou co-founder Vincent Mourou. “Making our chocolate in Vietnam gives us incredible control over flavour. We can adjust a fermentation batch, experiment with a new terroir, all within days. That proximity and the independence to be adventurous with our recipes allows us to create something truly distinctive and delicious. Sustainability isn’t separate from our product; it’s part of our flavour strategy.”
Of course, selecting the perfect bean is just part of the story. Most of these brands control the entire production process from “bean to bar”, creating a transparent and traceable supply chain, which is a major plus for conscious customers.
“Consumers today don’t just care about how products taste, but also about how they are made and where they come from. Ethical sourcing is therefore not separate from quality – it is part of it,” says Yilina Leong, co-founder of Singapore-based Fossa Chocolate.

“We work with suppliers who prioritise transparency, fair compensation and long-term relationships with farming communities. While certifications can be useful, we also value direct relationships and traceability because they allow us to better understand how the cacao is produced, and ensure quality and sustainability standards are upheld,” she adds.
Controlling production from roasting to refining also allows these brands to create daring and innovative flavour combinations, many of which pay tribute to the cultural identity of where they are from.
Conspiracy Chocolate has launched products featuring Asian-inspired flavours such as salted duck, oolong tea and Sichuan peppercorn, while other items, such as its chocolate mooncakes, pay tribute to Hong Kong. Fossa also highlights Singaporean tastes such as Nanyang kopi, satay sauce and rojak.
Other makers have also created novelties that appeal to different consumer tastes, including chocolates made from plant-based milks, with less sugar or with wellness-inspired ingredients like adaptogens.
“We approach chocolate almost like a culinary ingredient, often incorporating unexpected flavours, textures and local inspirations while still maintaining a strong focus on the quality of the cacao itself,” says Leong. “At the same time, we ensure the products are balanced and sophisticated enough to resonate internationally. Good flavour storytelling is universal, and that’s what keeps people coming back.”
5 bean-to-bar brands to savour
Conspiracy Chocolate, Hong Kong

Celebrating cacao beans from a single farm in the Dak Lak province of Vietnam, Conspiracy Chocolate boasts products ranging from bars – many made in collaboration with local tastemakers and chefs – to confectionery such as pralines and bonbons. They highlight their compostable consumer packaging and zero-waste production, which results in other delectable items such as cocoa husk tea.
Dandelion Chocolate, USA
Dandelion is one of the oldest bean-to-bar brands, being founded in 2010 in San Francisco’s Mission District, where it still boasts a factory and retail space offering tours and a cafe. Their chocolate appeals to purists, with most of its bars made from just two ingredients: cocoa beans and sugar. Look out for its stunning packaging, which features patterns silkscreened onto handmade paper from Jaipur, India.
Fossa Chocolate, Singapore
Founded in 2017 by Jay Chua, Charis Chia and Yilina Leong, Fossa started out as a home kitchen experiment before becoming one of Singapore’s most popular chocolate brands. Known for its small-batch chocolates, it features bold and unconventional flavours, most of which are inspired by Asia – think fragrant teas, local spices and nostalgic desserts.
Marou Chocolate, Vietnam

The brainchild of two Frenchmen, Marou Chocolate combines French flair with a Southeast Asian soul. Made exclusively from Vietnamese beans using French techniques, their range includes single-origin tablets, snack bars, chocolate-covered fruit and even grocery items. They have 25 retail boutiques in Vietnam, some featuring cafes, and a Marou Academie, which offers pastry and chocolate classes.
Pump Street Chocolate, UK
This award-winning brand was established by father-and-daughter team Chris and Joanna Brennan and is still family-run. Although they offer a range of products, their bestsellers are their baking-inspired chocolate bars, which pay tribute to their heritage – they started out as a bakery before branching into chocolate. Popular ingredients include sourdough, rye, sea salt and croissant crumbs.


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Singapore-based Fossa Chocolate is known for its Asian-inspired flavours. Photo: Handout

Hong Kong’s first bean-to-bar brand, Conspiracy Chocolate. Photo: Handout

Conspiracy Chocolate’s vivid packaging draws on the cocoa beans’ diverse origins. Photo: Handout

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Blueberry, Lavender & Oats chocolate from Fossa. Photo: Handout

Céline Herren, co-founder of Conspiracy, tempers chocolate at the brand’s kitchen in Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

Marou Chocolate is based in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. Photo: Handout

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Black sesame gelato with a black sesame tuile, at Glowbal. Photo: Handout

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Artisanal brands like Marou, Dandelion, Pump Street and Fossa are among the makers championing traceable cacao, bold flavours and small-batch craft


Artisanal brands like Marou, Dandelion, Pump Street and Fossa are among the makers championing traceable cacao, bold flavours and small-batch craft.


Chocolate’s bean-to-bar boom, from Asian-inspired flavours to single-origin cacao

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Artisanal brands like Marou, Dandelion, Pump Street and Fossa are among the makers championing traceable cacao, bold flavours and small-batch craft

Artisanal brands like Marou, Dandelion, Pump Street and Fossa are among the makers championing traceable cacao, bold flavours and small-batch craft