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Varvara Rodchenko

45R has remained a cult favourite for nearly half a century with good reason. Founded in 1977 in a small studio in Tokyo’s Daikanyama district, the Japanese label, named after the rotational speed of a seven-inch vinyl record, has built its reputation on a philosophy of nai monozukuri, meaning creating things that don’t exist, but feel like they should.

Indigo is the brand’s heartbeat. Unlike conventional dyeing methods that stiffen yarn, 45R’s approach is very precise: the yarn is dyed before a single loop is formed. This preserves the natural bounce and elasticity of the fibres, allowing the fabric to breathe and age with a living patina that deepens over time.

The August IDG (Indigo) Knit collection embodies that spirit, reinterpreting heritage techniques from Scotland to Canada with a distinctly Japanese sensibility. The Fair Isle pieces, for instance, draw on the century-old Scottish tradition of intricate, multicoloured geometric patterns. But here, they are rendered in 45R’s signature pre-dyed indigo yarn, creating deep, multi-tonal shades that feel both nostalgic and entirely new.

A relaxed henley and a flared bolero are among the standouts, their motifs blooming in soft, textural knits.

The craftsmanship becomes even more personal with the hand-knitted vests. Artisans build the houndstooth and herringbone designs stitch by stitch, carefully managing needle tension to create thick, architectural pieces that feel almost sculptural.

Then there is the Cowichan series, inspired by the heavy, graphic knits of Canada’s Vancouver Island. Rendered in chunky, hand-knitted yarns, each item – from the statement vest to the hairbands – carries the unmistakable warmth of human hands.

What ties it all together is the brand’s outstanding commitment to yarn-dyeing. By infusing each strand with colour before knitting, 45R ensures that the indigo does not merely sit on the surface but becomes part of the fabric’s soul. The result is knitwear that moves with you, softens with wear and tells a story of time, place and the quiet alchemy of Japanese craftsmanship.


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Style Edit: 45R brings masterful yarn-dyed indigo to Fair Isle and Cowichan knits

Japanese label 45R’s unique yarn-dyeing techniques preserve the natural bounce and fluid movement of its indigo garments. Photo: Handout

Fair Isle Bolero. Photo: Handout

Moccasin Bolero. Photo: Oliver Kervern

A close-up of the Fair Isle Henley. Photo: Handout

The Shetland Cowichan Vest is crafted from heavy, textured yarn. Photo: Handout

A model wears the indigo Shetland Cowichan Vest. Photo: Oliver Kervern

The Moccasin Bolero features a relaxed silhouette. Photo: Handout

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The Tokyo atelier channels its passion for textiles into a collection inspired by classic knitwear designs from Scotland and Canada


The Tokyo atelier channels its passion for textiles into a collection inspired by classic knitwear designs from Scotland and Canada.


Style Edit: 45R brings masterful yarn-dyed indigo to Fair Isle and Cowichan knits

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The Tokyo atelier channels its passion for textiles into a collection inspired by classic knitwear designs from Scotland and Canada

The Tokyo atelier channels its passion for textiles into a collection inspired by classic knitwear designs from Scotland and Canada