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Vincenzo La Torre

Chief Editor, Style; Fashion Editor, Post Magazine


The heatwave that gripped Europe during men’s fashion week last month – when some brands had to reschedule their shows due to the unbearable weather – has been the talk of the town in Paris, which is still sizzling.
The fall/winter 2026-27 haute couture shows kicked off on Monday amid soaring temperatures and World Cup fever. (Just before the start of haute couture week, France beat Paraguay, advancing to the quarter-finals.)

Haute couture is the pinnacle of fashion: exquisite, made-to-measure creations that only a privileged few can afford. Created in Parisian ateliers by a handful of houses – including Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga – haute couture collections also play an important role in those fashion brands’ marketing strategies, creating buzz and excitement for aspirational customers who gravitate towards entry-level pieces such as leather goods and shoes.
Here is all you need to know about the two top shows of day one: Dior and Schiaparelli.

Held at the Petit Palais – one of Paris’ most beautiful examples of Beaux-Arts architecture – and attended by celebrities including Bad Bunny, Michelle Yeoh and Emma Corrin, the Schiaparelli fall/winter 2026-27 show was a celebration of modern craft.
Creative director Daniel Roseberry shaped materials such as silicone and latex into corsets, skirts and jackets, giving them the lightness of fabrics.
Schiaparelli is famously a red-carpet darling – the label’s black gowns embellished with gold details have become instantly recognisable – but over the years Roseberry has evolved that signature look, experimenting with new materials and techniques.

In the show notes, the designer revealed that before beginning to work on this show, he had travelled to Barcelona for inspiration. Upon returning, however, he decided to forget about all that and to surrender to what the French call l’appel du vide – the call of the void.
That spontaneous approach resulted in a collection that turned long-held assumptions about haute couture on their heads. Synthetic materials like the aforementioned silicone and latex replaced “noble” and traditional fabrics such as silk and wool, and were sculpted into striking silhouettes.
Technology played a key role in the making of these creations – a series of glowing dresses were illuminated from within. But these were not garments made by AI; far from it.

Embellishments ranged from real flowers to fish scales, ribbons, spikes and crinoline tubes while a pair of low-rise pants was encrusted with beads, rhinestones and pearls.

The collection had plenty of showstopping gowns, but also some great tailoring and separates. Among the best looks were jackets, vests and tops paired with trousers or skirts that clung gently to the body.
A latex look adorned with tentacles, outfits with details such as strategically placed cut-outs, and corset lacing all added an element of kink to the line-up.

The look that best defined the collection, however, was a flower-embellished jacket worn with a transparent skirt in silicone – a masterful example of the dichotomy between traditional craftsmanship and modern technology at the heart of this remarkable show.

Just days after the news broke that Taylor Swift wore Dior at her wedding to Travis Kelce in New York City over the weekend, the brand unveiled its fall/winter 2026-27 haute couture collection at the Musée Rodin in Paris.
While Swift didn’t make an appearance at the event, Chinese model Ming Xi – who also recently wore Dior for her nuptials to Mario Ho – graced the front row, alongside celebrities such as Naomi Watts, Han So-hee, Mingyu and Dree Hemingway.
The show took place in the gardens of the museum, where the brand erected a runway lined with lush fern trees.

Artistic director Jonathan Anderson referenced the work of American sculptor Lynda Benglis in the collection.
In the show notes, Anderson – who previously worked with Benglis when he was creative director of Loewe – referred to the collection as a response to her work “in the language of couture”.
Benglis’ corrugated metallic sculptures and her textured shapes, which she creates by knotting and moulding two-dimensional surfaces, informed a range in which couture techniques such as pleating and draping achieved the same effect, but in fabric form.

Crushed handbags and hats in metallic hues such as bronze and gold echoed the structures and materials of Benglis’ work, while nods to Indian traditional textiles like chintz originated from Benglis’ long-time relationship with Ahmedabad, India, where she conceived her Peacock series.
Inspiration aside, the show felt like a dreamy escape into an idyllic sylvan promised land. Even the music was a mesmerising amalgam of nature sounds, from rainstorms to animal cries.

Oversized coats had the ease of bathrobes and nightgowns, while Dior’s signature Bar jacket was reinvented in a variety of fabrications, from pleats to shredded knits.
Since joining Dior, Anderson has made pleats a signature of his oeuvre, becoming a master at the folding technique. A series of accordion-pleated looks, some embellished with floral appliqués, looked out of this world.

The ferns surrounding the runway also made an appearance in the outfits, from a Bar jacket in “fern green” tweed to a beautiful black coat with a white lace fern motif at the hem.

Anderson seems to have enjoyed his recent forays into bridal wear. The show closed with a stunning wedding dress featuring a train made in hand-pleated chiffon, and a cactus and fern motif in white lace. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t take long for keen observers to speculate on social media that the look might be a not-so-veiled homage to Swift’s dress, which has been shrouded in relative mystery – no official photo has been released yet and only a handful of blurry pictures of the bride have leaked online.


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Haute Couture

Paris Haute Couture Week 2026: Dior references Lynda Benglis as Schiaparelli embraces silicone

The Dior haute couture fall/winter 2026-27 show had plenty of pleats. Photo: AFP

Dior created a forest within the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris. Photo: Reuters

Bad Bunny at the Schiaparelli show. Photo: AFP

Materials such as silicone dominated the Schiaparelli collection. Photo: Handout

Embellished pants paired with a silicone top at Schiaparelli. Photo: Handout

A latex look with tentacles at Schiaparelli. Photo: Handout

A flower-embellished jacket worn with a bias-cut skirt in silicone at Schiaparelli. Photo: Handout

The lush set of Dior’s fall/winter 2026-27 haute couture show. Photo: AFP

A crushed and pleated bag inspired by the work of Lynda Benglis at Dior. Photo: AFP

A new take on the Bar jacket from Jonathan Anderson at Dior. Photo: AFP

A fringed coat offered plenty of texture at Dior. Photo: AFP

A fringed Bar jacket in “fern green” at Dior. Photo: AFP

A bridal look closed the Dior haute couture fall/winter 2026-27 show. Photo: AFP

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Austria’s David Alaba during the send-off ceremony for the Austrian men’s national football team, earlier this month, ahead of the 2026 Fifa World Cup. Photo: APA/DPA

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The Netherlands men’s national team defender Virgil van Dijk arrives for the 2026 Fifa World Cup at Charles B. Wheeler Downtown Airport in Kansas City, Missouri, earlier this month. Photo: Imagn Images via Reuters Connect

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Danielle Levi worked with several celebrity stylists before meeting Kim Kardashian. Photo: @superrrdani/Instagram

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Emma Raducanu, Britain’s top ranked female tennis player, will be promoting Uniqlo on and off the court. Photo: @uniqlo_ambassadors/Instagram

NBA star Klay Thompson has been with Anta since 2014. Photo: @antasportsofficial/Instagram

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Bad Bunny, Michelle Yeoh and Emma Corrin were among the stars spotted at Schiaparelli, while Dior’s bridal piece had fans speculating about Taylor Swift’s wedding dress


Bad Bunny, Michelle Yeoh and Emma Corrin were among the stars spotted at Schiaparelli, while Dior’s bridal piece had fans speculating about Taylor Swift’s wedding dress.
