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Tribune News Service

Let’s just get this out of the way: hiking through California’s Yosemite Valley, whether it be to the Vernal and Nevada falls or through Cook’s Meadow, is a mesmerising and special experience.
The hulking granite walls will remind you how small you are – and how remarkable our world is. Listening as waterfalls thunder down the mountain can place you in a meditative trance if you let it.
The beauty of the valley is the best kind of sensory overload. It’s the reason that, at times, Yosemite can feel a bit crowded – it is a popular destination, especially among Chinese and Japanese travellers – and why so many are willing to drive many hours north to reach it.
If you want to experience Yosemite’s beauty without the crowds, then I have a little treat for you. Recently, I visited the park with my friend Patrick in search of a hike around Yosemite Valley where we could still find solitude.

Before we dive in, though, there are a few reminders. Firstly, never walk off-path into any of Yosemite’s meadows, as they are sensitive habitats. Second, check the weather before heading out; Yosemite’s elevation varies widely, and it heats up in the summer, especially in the valley.
Third, pack accordingly – especially on day hikes – as rescue can take hours; your pack should include anything you’d need should you have to spend the night outside. Fourth, do not feed the wildlife, including squirrels. Finally, practise “Leave No Trace” as you explore this national treasure.
Patrick and I took a 10.4-mile (16.7km) journey to Taft Point, an epic lookout point that many hikers reach through a shorter 2.2-mile trek from the Sentinel Dome/Taft Point Trailhead. Let me tell you why, if your schedule and body allow, the long way is better.
We started our hike from our campsite in nearby Bridalveil Creek, one of about half a dozen campgrounds in Yosemite where you can book two weeks ahead, and walked 0.7 miles to the McGurk Meadow Trailhead, where around 11am there remained ample parking.
I was concerned about how hot it would get since we had got a later start, but we were immediately shaded on the trail by tall evergreens amid a forest floor of ferns and other greenery. After a short jaunt through the woods, we spotted the green and golden grasses of McGurk Meadow, still dappled with wildflowers.

As we traversed the narrow dirt path, we stopped to observe the red paintbrushes, purply pink fireweed and yellow goldenrod growing along the trail. No one rushed past us as we debated whether a particular white flower was yarrow or something else.
About 1.8 miles from the trailhead, we reached the end of the McGurk Meadows Trail and continued northeast on the Pohono Trail. We’d seen around eight people at this point, including a photographer who told us about a bear he’d spotted ahead on the trail.
We arrived at Bridalveil Creek shortly thereafter, just over two miles in. We crossed a wooden bridge that takes hikers over the waterway, pausing to observe rainbow trout and chat with a hiker who’d spent the night in a nearby backcountry camp. This creek appeared to be the only water source this late in the summer, so if you have a filter and need to refill your bottles, this is where you should stop.
As we hiked through more pine forest, past yellow California coneflower and purple Sierra larkspur, I asked Patrick: “Does this hike feel like a ‘Yosemite hike’? Or was this like any other walk in the woods?”
Patrick paused to consider. We’d already passed a large, pristine meadow. We’d seen several wildflowers still blooming and the crystal-clear river still flowing despite the August heat. And we were almost always hiking under the shade of giant trees.

Still, when you are hiking in Yosemite, you’re expecting to experience the cream of America’s national park crop. Patrick confided in me that although he’d enjoyed everything so far, much of his expectations for our hike would depend on what we observed at Taft Point.
Unlike me, he hadn’t Googled it before coming on the trip and didn’t know what to expect. And although I’d seen the images, I feared this: what if it was all just clever Instagram angles, and this turned out to be a waste of precious time?
Then, just under four miles from the trailhead, the landscape shifted from pine forest to boulders and short trees and shrubs. We spotted a short metal railing and marched over boulders to the outlook. As I gazed down at Yosemite Valley, my fears about the trail’s splendour – or lack thereof – dissipated.

El Capitan, which rises over 3,000 feet (914 metres) above the valley floor, was in full view. Yosemite Falls, mostly dry this time of year, was easy to spot.
I went to check out the famous rock outcropping I’d spotted online. Patrick, who was rapidly discovering his fear of heights, stayed at the railing to take my photo. I marvelled at all that rivers and glaciers had carved over millions of years.
Taft Point was the busiest point of our hike, but it was still easy enough to find a spot in the shade to enjoy our lunch. We saw fewer than 20 people on the trail and just a few dozen total at Taft Point. It never felt crowded.
As we headed back, I remarked to Patrick how surprised I was not to see a single bear given how few people were on the trail. I learned why when we met a group of about eight kids from South Los Angeles swimming in Bridalveil Creek.
“We saw four bears!” one of them shouted to us.
One of their chaperones showed us a picture of a bear just off-trail. I chuckled to myself. The children’s joy over the sightings was infectious. And although we didn’t see any ourselves, we still got to see squirrels, chipmunks, woodpeckers, blue jays and one deer just a few feet off-trail.

I understand that writing about a less crowded hike in Yosemite will undoubtedly mean more people take this path. I heard similar complaints when I wrote about Kings Canyon National Park last year. This is why I try to always include Leave No Trace principles and encourage hikers to respect the space.
Additionally, I hope my words not only inspire you to visit Yosemite but also to do further research, as this is only one of several less-crowded hikes in the park. Given the park’s fever-pitch overcrowding, I was surprised to learn just how easy it remained to be alone in Yosemite.
I hope you find a similar solitude, should that be what your heart needs.


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Tourism

Hiking in Yosemite along lesser-known trails where wildlife, epic views and solitude abound

Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove celebrates their successful jaunt to Taft Point, an epic lookout point in Yosemite National Park. (Jaclyn Cosgrove/Los Angeles Times/TNS)

A view from Taft Point in Yosemite. While some routes to the national park’s most scenic spots can be crowded with tourists, others remain relatively unknown. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

McGurk Meadow, one of the scenic spots along a lesser-known hike in Yosemite. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

Bridalveil Creek. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

Much of the hike from McGurk Meadow to Taft Point is shaded by massive pine trees and evergreens. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

The author’s friend Patrick at Taft Point. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

A deer rests just off the McGurk Meadow Trail. Photo: Los Angeles Times/TNS

Why Hong Kong is a butterfly lovers’ paradise and where to see them

A Paris peacock butterfly is seen at Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden in Hong Kong’s Tai Po district. More than 240 species of butterfly are found in Hong Kong, and over 2,000 species of moth. Photo: KFBG

The Great Mormon butterfly (Papilio memnon) is a large and common swallowtail species found in Hong Kong. Photo: KFBG

Philip Lo (right), senior conservation officer (projects) of KFBG’s Conservation China Programme, shows a guest around KFBG. Photo: KFBG

The Burmese bush blue butterfly is a very rare species that is found in Hong Kong. Photo: KFBG

KFGB holds butterfly watching tours where participants can learn about their habits and basic identification. Photo: KFBG

The common hedge blue is a small butterfly found in Hong Kong. Photo: KFBG

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A shellfish dish at Moc. The Da Nang restaurant is one that chef Olivier Corti of fine-dining joint Le Comptoir recommends for seafood and more. Photo: Instagram/kenhuntsfood

Tourists and locals alike enjoy fresh seafood al fresco at Da Nang’s Moc restaurant. Photo: Instagram/@haisanmocquandanang

Olivier Corti is the executive chef and co-owner of Le Comptoir, a French fine-dining restaurant in Da Nang. Photo: Le Comptoir

Corti’s version of quenelle de Lyon is topped with crystal caviar and paired with an intense crawfish sauce. Photo: Le Comptoir

A dish at Hai San Chau Son 1 Chau Nga, a no-frills seafood joint with pavement seating. Photo: Instagram/@palhehe

At Moc, diners can select the lobster they wish to eat from tanks. Photo: Instagram/haisanmocquandanang

Dishes at Banh Xeo Ba Duong. Photo: Instagram/duongvux_

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Why Megève in the French Alps is a year-round gastronomic delight

Fondue originated in Switzerland, but also has a long tradition in France. Photo: Marie Bougault/Press Association

Megève in the French Alps is a well-known skiing destination, and famous for its excellent food. Photo: Marie Bougault/Press Association

While fondue is most famous for originating in Switzerland, this mountain dish has a long tradition in France. Photo: Marie Bougault/Press Association/dpa

Fondue judges make notes at the competition in Megève, in the French Alps. Photo: Paul Besson/Press Association

A charcuterie plate Megève-style. Photo: Marie Bougault/Press Association

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Lifestyle

Travel & Leisure

Seeing California’s Yosemite National Park in all its beauty usually means dealing with crowds. Not on this hike. You may even spot a bear


Seeing California’s Yosemite National Park in all its beauty usually means dealing with crowds. Not on this hike. You may even spot a bear.


Hiking in Yosemite along lesser-known trails where wildlife, epic views and solitude abound

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Seeing California’s Yosemite National Park in all its beauty usually means dealing with crowds. Not on this hike. You may even spot a bear

Seeing California’s Yosemite National Park in all its beauty usually means dealing with crowds. Not on this hike. You may even spot a bear