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Cyril Ip

The natural charms of Hangzhou in China were immortalised more than 1,000 years ago in the poems of Bai Juyi and Lin Bu, and it remains a draw to this day even as the city has grown into a hub for innovation.
Known for its ancient streets and tree-lined canals, on the first day of China’s recent national “golden week” holiday in October Hangzhou welcomed more than 1.8 million visitors, making it one of the most visited destinations during the seven-day holiday. Autumn, with its cooler temperatures, is the best time to visit the city, the capital of Zhejiang province.
West Lake, usually tranquil, was packed. A Unesco World Heritage site since 2011, the freshwater lake is known for its well-kept gardens, islands, pagodas and temples, and is ringed by lush green hills. It is classified as a 5A tourist attraction – the highest rating by China’s culture and tourism ministry, reserved for its most spectacular sites.
The lake is around 3km (1.9 miles) by 3km and oval-shaped. A trip across it can take up to an hour in peak season.

The 10th century poet Lin Bu lived as a recluse on Gushan, or Solitary Hill, the lake’s largest natural island, for most of his later years. The 8th century poet Bai Juyi, who served as governor of Hangzhou, wrote in The Lake in Spring: “From fair Hangzhou I cannot tear myself away, on half my heart this lake holds an alluring sway.”
The spot most worth visiting around West Lake is the five-storey, octagonal Leifeng Pagoda, a replica of one built in 975 that collapsed in 1924. It is where the Legend of the White Snake, one of China’s four great folk tales, was set.
The base of the original pagoda can still be seen. Visitors can take a lift to the top for views of the lake and the Baochu Pagoda on the opposite shore. A ticket to the shrine costs 40 yuan (US$6) – those under six or over 70 pay 20 yuan.

Another must-see in Hangzhou is Lingyin Temple, which translates as the Temple of the Soul’s Retreat. Nearly 1,700 years old, the temple is known for its caves and grottoes with their Buddhist carvings and rock reliefs. Entry costs 45 yuan, and those under six or over 70 can enter for half price.
Today Hangzhou is an information technology centre, with companies including Alibaba Group, Ant Group and NetEase headquartered there and its economy now larger than that of Sweden’s. Alibaba is the owner of the South China Morning Post. After hours, many IT workers and others are drawn to the city’s vibrant music scene.
Among the places to go is the Huanglou JZ Club, a laid-back, two-storey space in a former second world war hospital in Shangcheng district and a good place to see live jazz. On a recent visit, the Gaelle Wondje quartet from Cameroon in West Africa were performing, with a surprise impromptu set by local talents Arvin Ma and Emmy Guo.
There is no entry fee; a cocktail costs around 100 yuan.












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For those looking for something more traditional, the “Impression West Lake” show is performed by 200 singers and dancers. It is directed by Zhang Yimou, Wang Chaoge and Fan Yue, and tickets cost 310 yuan to 960 yuan.
How to get there: Hangzhou is a two-hour flight from Hong Kong, or one hour by train from Shanghai – a journey which, depending on the departure time, usually costs under 80 yuan.


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Asia travel

What to see and do in Hangzhou, China, from beautiful ancient sites to a jazz bar

Hangzhou’s budget-friendly attractions are numerous, from West Lake (pictured) that poets have immortalised to an intimate jazz bar. Photo: Shutterstock

West Lake has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 2011. Photo: Getty Images

The West Lake’s Leifeng Pagoda is among the most popular attractions in Hangzhou. Photo: Xiaohongshu/@DenJay

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Shaman Florentino Chazoy travels to the Green Lake, which is now watched over by the local indigenous community. Photo: AFP

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Lifestyle

Travel & Leisure

Hangzhou’s attractions are many, from West Lake, immortalised by poets centuries ago, to an intimate jazz bar


Hangzhou’s attractions are many, from West Lake, immortalised by poets centuries ago, to an intimate jazz bar.


China travel

Tourism

What to see and do in Hangzhou, China, from beautiful ancient sites to a jazz bar

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Hangzhou’s attractions are many, from West Lake, immortalised by poets centuries ago, to an intimate jazz bar

Hangzhou’s attractions are many, from West Lake, immortalised by poets centuries ago, to an intimate jazz bar