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What are alkaline rice dumplings, the Dragon Boat Festival sweet treat loved by an empress?

Alkaline rice dumplings, traditionally eaten during the Dragon Boat or Tuen Ng Festival, boast a rich history that dates back to ancient times

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A golden kumquat rice dumpling from Tsui Hang Village in Hong Kong. Alkaline rice dumplings are a Dragon Boat Festival sweet treat with ancient origins. Photo: Tsui Hang Village
Lisa Cam

Alkaline rice dumplings, a sweet treat often enjoyed with red bean paste, peanut sauce or honey, can be an acquired taste for those in Hong Kong celebrating the Tuen Ng Festival, or Dragon Boat Festival.

This is because, in China, rice dumplings are sweet in the north and savoury in the south – or so the saying goes. In Hong Kong, glutinous rice dumplings stuffed with pork, salted egg yolk, mung beans and mushrooms are more common.

Historical records reveal that alkaline dumplings with sweetened lotus seed paste were served in the inner palace during the Qing dynasty (1644-1912). Empress Dowager Cixi, who was known for her sweet tooth, was rumoured to favour these soft, springy rice dumplings during the Tuen Ng Festival.

Making alkaline water

The ancient method of alkaline refining dates back to the Spring and Autumn Period (circa 770BC-476BC) and the Eastern Han dynasty (AD25-220), when Chinese people discovered that water rich in potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate – obtained by soaking plant ash – could remove oil, soften fibres and aid coagulation.
Alkaline water, also known as lye water, has strong antibacterial properties. In times before refrigeration, bamboo shoots treated with alkaline water not only kept longer than fresh bamboo shoots but were also less prone to spoilage.
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