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Kylie Knott

Hongkonger Alex Hung arranges dim-sum-loaded bamboo baskets with the speed of an orchestra conductor.
“The weekend is peak time,” he says as he places a selection of staples – siu mai, har gow and pan-fried turnip cake – on the table.
Hoi King Seafood (13-15 Wing On Side Street, Peng Chau. Tel: 2983 9588) has been dishing up tradition for 60 years on Peng Chau, a tranquil, car-free island nestled in Hong Kong’s western waters.
Dim sum is king here, which is confusing considering the restaurant’s name. Seafood is not on the menu at all. Instead, diners can buy it at the nearby Peng Chau Market, and Hoi King will cook it.

Preparing fresh catches from local fishermen harks back to Peng Chau’s heyday during the Qing dynasty (1644-1911), when the fishing industry was the island’s economic backbone.
By the 1990s, the industry had crashed as overfishing depleted resources. A rise in marine pollution and habitat loss through land reclamation also took a toll.
The tiny island, with an area of less than 1 sq km (0.4 square miles), pivoted to become an industrial hub, boosted by the establishment in 1939 of the Great China Match Factory – at its peak, the largest match factory in Southeast Asia – and the Fook Yuen Leather Factory in 1936.
Today, remnants of these factories have been transformed into creative spaces. The former leather factory is now a colourful “secret garden” with Instagram-worthy graffiti and installations made from recycled materials.
While Peng Chau’s arts scene is active, the island is best summed up as sleepy – and people love it that way. Although just a 30-40 minute ferry ride to Hong Kong’s Central Pier 6, it feels a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Ferries to Peng Chau also run from Cheung Chau, and Mui Wo and Nim Shue Wan (Discovery Bay) on Lantau Island.
Daisann McLane owns “the only wine shop on the island”, Lou Natural Wine. The American former journalist travelled the world writing for Rolling Stone magazine and The New York Times before settling in Hong Kong 20 years ago. She has spent the past eight years living on Peng Chau.

Like most “newcomers”, McLane was drawn by the sea and proximity to nature. “But it’s only after a few years that you begin to realise the treasure of Peng Chau is its people and the unique islander culture,” she says.
The island has several temples, including Lung Mo Temple, where, legend has it, worshippers who touch the “dragon’s bed” inside the temple will have luck in marriage and fertility.
Weekends are the best time to visit, when most of Peng Chau’s shops and restaurants are open.
Day trippers can explore Peng Yu Path, an easy walk passing secluded beaches, or the Peng Chau Family Walk, a loop connecting historic sites such as the Golden Flower Shrine and Tin Hau Temple. It also gives access to Finger Hill, which, at 95 metres (310ft), is the island’s highest peak and a sunset hotspot.

For a post-hike feast or caffeine fix, Peng Chau has some tasty options where a “go with the flow” attitude – and cash – works best. Here are some to try.
Storytelling Coffee
Opened in June by best friends Charlotte Cheng, Ryan Lee and Anson Cheng, Storytelling Coffee is a place where guests are encouraged to share their stories and even their art.
“Artists can show their work here for free – it’s a win-win situation for everyone,” Charlotte Cheng says. “We want Storytelling Coffee to be a place where people connect – it’s like a friend.”
The food looks good too, with items including an all-day breakfast of smoked salmon, mushrooms, salad, scrambled eggs, cheese sausage and a croissant (HK$128), pasta dishes including porcini mushroom (HK$98) and laksa leaf and spicy sausage (HK$98).

There are also bagels with toppings such as smoked salmon (HK$78) and wasabi and chicken (HK$68).
Drinks include coffee in fun flavours from hojicha and chocolate (HK$60) to apple tea (HK$60) and tiramisu (HK$60).
27 Wing Hing Street. Tel: 6928 2246
Chicken Wing Chan
Diners pull up plastic chairs even before this popular family-run eatery opens.
The restaurant’s vast menu features dishes common at dai pai dongs (open-air food stalls), such as fried beef short ribs (HK$105) and poached clams with vermicelli (HK$110).
Other menu items include braised pork knuckle with red fermented bean curd (HK$80) and tofu puffs stuffed with minced fish (HK$80). The impressive soup selection features corn and fish maw soup (HK$90) and seaweed tofu egg soup (HK$80).
Miss Chan, also known as “Cee, as in ABC”, is the daughter of the restaurant’s founders. She started helping her mother out three years ago after her father died.

“Everyone called my father ‘Chicken Wing Chan’, so my mum is called ‘Chicken Wing Wife’,” Chan says.
“We’ve been here for many years, although I don’t know the exact number; let me check,” she says, pulling out the restaurant’s original liquor licence from behind the fridge. It is stamped April 7, 1982.
“We open three days a week because my mother is getting old – she’s in her seventies and needs to rest.”
1 Kin Hong Street. Tel: 2983 1132
Lou Natural Wine
This part wine shop, part book shop (called Nam Wan Bookshop) is the go-to place for natural wines, most of which are sourced from small independent wineries in France, Italy and Spain.

Community engagement is important to owner McLane, who recently curated a wedding banquet at Chicken Wing Chan, pairing Lou wines with dishes such as stir-fried chicken with spring onion, salt and pepper squid, clams with black bean sauce, and a steamed fish caught on the island.
“We also host wine tasting dinners at Miss Chan’s as well as in our shop and garden,” McLane says. She also stocks organic coffee, chocolate, cheese and black sesame paste made on Peng Chau.
Grab a bottle of orange wine that is made when white grape skins macerate for longer.
“It’s also called skin contact wine and has a rich, deep flavour,” McLane says.
38C Wing Hing Street. Tel: 9864 3014
Island Table Grocer Cafe
This cosy, pet-friendly, family-run cafe serves some of the best coffee on Peng Chau. Enjoy a slice of strawberry or crème brûlée cheesecake (HK$55), washed down with a turmeric and cinnamon latte (HK$48).

Home-made lunch items include BBQ duck pizza (HK$78) and caprese salad (HK$98).
Signature cocktails include the Triple Happiness (espresso, vodka, Baileys) and the hot toddy (whisky, lemonade and honey).
9C Wing Hing Street. Tel: 6465 5991
Lily Restaurant
Justin Lau, the UK-born owner of Lily, named his restaurant after his feng shui master.
Lily oozes retro vibes – think classic stone floor tiles and metal folding gates – and there is a lot of orange.
“Lily said I should decorate with orange to bring good luck,” Lau says.

Popular dishes include hoisin chicken with cashews (HK$53), salt and chilli chicken wings with rice (HK$53) and bitter melon with scrambled eggs (HK$53).
G/F Rear Portion, 1K Wing On Street. Tel: 9733 3190
Siyamon Thai Cooking
This little gem not only sells Asian produce – including spices, fresh basil, lemongrass and chillies imported from Thailand – but also hosts cooking classes.
Owner Siyamom Kruemsunthia, who goes by “Jenny”, moved to Hong Kong from Nakhon Ratchasima in northeastern Thailand in 2001 when she was 19.
“I’ve loved cooking since I was young, and spreading my knowledge to others is the best thing in life,” she says.

The large selection of dishes includes 15 starters – from prawn cakes to crispy prawns wrapped with noodles – 13 desserts, including classics such as mango sticky rice and coconut sago pudding, and a huge range of rice dishes, soups, noodle dishes, salads and curries.
As for the cooking classes, they run for three hours and are held for groups of two (HK$480 per person) or groups of three to eight (HK$380 per person). Alternatively, the master course comprises four three-hour classes for HK$1,400 per person.
5 Wing On Side Street. Tel: 6709 3878
Extra bites…
Vegetarian restaurant Luen On (9E Wing Hing Street. Tel: 2983 9820) is recommended by McLane, and its braised eggplant with shredded vegetarian pork hits the spot. Other dishes include vegetarian mapo tofu and stewed pumpkin and taro. Go early as dishes sell out fast, and sit outside near the garden.
Choose to Bite Pizzeria (6 Wing Hing Street. Tel: 2869 6128) is all about comfort food: pizzas, pasta, burgers, chicken wings and loaded fries. Owners Juner and Marjorie Bajarias, who have lived on Peng Chau for more than 20 years, started the business in 2022. “No one else on the island serves American-style pizza,” Juner says.

The Edible Projects (1K Front Portion, Wing On Street. Tel: 6905 2226) is a social enterprise cafe that employs young people with autism. Grab a table outside and enjoy breakfast dishes such as its Italian-style egg pancake with salsa (HK$68).
Wah Kee Snack Shop (2B Chi Yan Lane) sells cheap and cheerful fried favourites to take away, including glutinous rice balls (HK$11/four pieces), cheese sausage (HK$12) and cuttlefish balls (HK$12).
Established in 1970, Kee Sum Cafe (3B Wing On Street. Tel: 2983 0554) serves curry beef brisket and stir-fried udon with pork and XO sauce. Diners love its shrimp toast (HK$54).
Shing Hing Restaurant (26 Wing On Street. Tel: 2983 0340) is best known for its handmade fish balls and dim sum served the old-school way: from a trolley.

Hoho Kitchen (29 Wing On Street. Tel: 2983 8218) serves traditional Hong Kong cha chaan teng-style dishes such as baked pork chop rice and tomato with beef noodles. Guests love the pineapple bun with ice cream in flavours such as vanilla, mango and ube (purple yam).
Nostalgic favourite A NOY Bakery (11 Wing Hing Street. Tel 9804 3522) is best known for its crispy sesame crackers and pineapple buns.


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Food and Drinks

What to eat on Hong Kong’s Peng Chau, a food-filled island that comes alive at weekends

Alex Hung prepares dim sum at Hoi King Seafood, one of Peng Chau’s many popular restaurants. Head to the island at weekends to find delicious treats from Thai food to Hong Kong pineapple buns filled with ice cream. Photo: Kylie Knott

A fishmonger at Peng Chau Market. Photo: Kylie Knott

Daisann McLane (right) is the owner of Lou Natural Wine, while Myriem Alnet runs the book shop in the shared space. Photo: Kylie Knott 

Lung Mo Temple is the largest of several temples on Peng Chau. Photo: Kylie Knott

An all-day breakfast with an apple tea coffee at Storytelling Coffee. Photo: Storytelling Coffee

“Cee” Chan (left) and her mother, known by Peng Chau locals as “Chicken Wing Wife”, are seen at their restaurant Chicken Wing Chan. Photo: Kylie Knott

Lou Natural Wine on Peng Chau shares its space with a bookshop. Photo: Instagram/loupengchau

Island Table Grocer Cafe serves some of the best coffee on Peng Chau, and is a great spot for people watching. Photo: Kylie Knott

Justin Lau, owner of Lily Restaurant, is one of Peng Chau’s many colourful characters. Photo: Kylie Knott 

Siyamon Thai Cooking offers authentic Thai cooking classes designed for all skill levels, available in English, Cantonese and Thai. Photo: Siyamon Thai Cooking

Choose to Bite Pizzeria is a Peng Chau favourite serving American-style pizza. Photo: Kylie Knott

Hoho Kitchen is a Peng Chau joint known for serving pineapple buns with vanilla, mango and ube (purple yam) ice cream. Photo: Instagram/ninadizon29

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Foxglove, a speakeasy in Hong Kong’s Central neighbourhood, is set to become the latest in a string of major bar closures in the city in 2025. Photo: Christopher DeWolf

The interior of The Daily Tot, which closed on December 2. Photo: Daily Tot

A declining interest in alcohol is one of the factors contributing to the Hong Kong bar industry’s woes. Photo: The Daily Tot

The Daily Tot’s Peel Street Spirit. David Sit, head of the bar’s parent company, says the decision to close it was “purely economic”. Photo: The Daily Tot

15 of the best places to eat on Cheung Chau, a Hong Kong island packed with restaurants and cafes where old meets new

Cheung Chau, an outlying island in Hong Kong. Photo: Getty Images

Seafood restaurants line the  waterfront’s bustling Pak She Praya Road on HK’s Cheung Chau Island. Photo: Kylie Knott

Seafood restaurants line Pak She Praya Road on the waterfront of Cheung Chau Island. Explore its streets for a wealth of other dining options. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cheung Chau-based artist Louis To, better known as Sugarman, makes intricate candy figurines. Photo: Kylie Knott

One of To’s figurines made from candy. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cheung Chau’s bun scrambling competition, a main feature of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival, sees people race to climb towers and grab as many buns as they can. Photo: Dickson Lee

Wallace Ko, founder of Cheung Chau Sourdough, with his dog Chor Sam. Photo: Kylie Knott 

Hong Lan Bakery makes some of the best pineapple buns around. Photo: Kylie Knott

The brightly decorated Aussie-style cafe La Luz. Photo: Kylie Knott

At Happy Belly, the home-made pasta with crabmeat and a creamy tomato sauce can be washed down with an Islander Cheung Chau lychee honey soda. Photo: Islander Cheung Chau

The braised pork set at Bannichi. Photo: Kylie Knott

Steven Choi, co-founder of Island Workbench, a dessert specialist on Cheung Chau. He is carrying a caramel pudding cheesecake, angel cake roll and tofu cheese cake. Photo: Kylie Knott 

If people watching with a coffee in hand is your cup of tea, then Haika Coffee is the place for you. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cuteness overload at Cheung Chau’s corgi-themed cafe, Wow Tea, which specialises in drinks from Taiwan. Photo: Kylie Knott 

A chicken banh mi at Ba Chi Em. Photo: Kylie Knott

Husband and wife team Yuki Wong and Aaron Tan of La Eat . Photo: Kylie Knott 

Chinese cabbage lotus leaf pork dumplings at Gogi Ice House. Photo: Kylie Knott

Ricky Yuen of The Cove. Photo: Kylie Knott

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Espace Elastique in Tai O on Lantau Island serves a thin-crust pizza with a base smothered in tomato sauce infused with locally made shrimp paste, and topped with finely ground Tai O salted fish and tiny dried sakura shrimp, Jun 22, 2024. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cheng Kai-keung and his mother at Cheng Cheung Hing Shrimp Paste in Tai O, one of two surviving shrimp paste producers in the former fishing village on Lantau. Photo: Kylie Knott

Tai O village, on the west coast of Hong Kong’s Lantau Island, is famous for its stilt houses (pang uk) and waterways. Photo: Getty Images

Visitors get up close to Tai O stilt houses in a kayak. Many have been damaged by floods and fires in recent times. Photo: Jonathan Wong

A woman sells dried seafood at a market in Tai O. Photo: Kylie Knott

Dried seafood and condiments for sale are a common sight in Tai O. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cindy Lee of Sing Lee Shrimp Sauce and Paste Manufacturer. Lee’s family has been making shrimp paste and sauce in Tai O for more than 90 years. Photo: Kylie Knott

Crispy chicken wings with a shrimp sauce at Tai O Lookout, at the Tai O Heritage Hotel. Photo: Kylie Knott

Espace Elastique serves a thin-crust pizza with a base smothered in tomato sauce infused with locally made shrimp paste, and topped with finely ground Tai O salted fish and dried sakura shrimp. Photo: Kylie Knott

Veronica Chan, owner of Espace Elastique. Photo: Kylie Knott

Solo Cafe serves coffee that customers can drink on the spacious terrace overlooking the water. Photo: Kylie Knott 

Grilled seafood for sale in Tai O. Photo: Kylie Knott

Tai O waffle maker Mr Chan makes his desserts the traditional way, over charcoal. Photo: Kylie Knott

Sun-dried salted eggs are another Tai O speciality. Photo: Kylie Knott

Cheung Choi Kee’s signature husband rolls feature fried minced pork and shredded lettuce stuffed into a crispy Indian roti. Photo: Kylie Knott

Juicy jumbo fish balls at well-known Tai O street-food vendor Fuk Hing Hong. Photo: Kylie Knott

Calvin Wong and his mother Lily with a batch of oven-fresh Tai O donuts at the family-run Tai O Bakery. Photo: Kylie Knott

(From left) Charing Lo, Ling Lo and Ping Lo are three of five sisters who run Tai-O Fatty, which specialises in mochi. Photo: Kylie Knott 

A man sells snacks of dried ginger and black sesame and peanut mochi in Tai O. Photo: Kylie Knott

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Bartenders at Chandu create drinks with a narrative that are loosely based on history. Photo: The Robertson House by the Crest Collection

A bartender mixes a drink at Chandu, one of our picks of six of the best hidden speakeasy bars in Singapore. Photo: The Robertson House by the Crest Collection

The Mizuwari whisky highball at Live Twice uses Hokkaido soft water rather than soda to accentuate the malt notes of the Japanese Nikka whiskies. Photo: Instagram/@livetwicesg

Chandu is inspired by Singapore’s colonial era, when opium dens flourished in the city state. Photo: The Robertson House by The Crest Collection

Chandu’s Mata Hari cocktail is named after a Dutch dancer and courtesan. Photo: Facebook/Chandu

Oriental Elixir, located in a Peranakan rowhouse, is a dimly lit watering hole for nonconformist cocktails. Photo: Philipp Meier

Oriental Elixir’s Malabar Tamarind cocktail combines the sour ingredient with roasted cherry tomato gin, dry vermouth. Photo: Instagram/@oriental.elixir

Junior the Pocket Bar is a small, 25-seater speakeasy that tasks itself with changing the menu completely every few months. Photo: Philipp Meier

A cocktail titled Sesame from the Korea-inspired menu at Junior the Pocket Bar. Photo: Junior the Pocket Bar

Jade Harbour is part of The Bund menu currently offered at Junior the Pocket Bar, inspired by the Shanghai district. Credit: Junior the Pocket Bar

For its Korean Joseon dynasty-inspired menu, the interiors of Junior the Pocket Bar featured dragons. Photo: Philipp Meier

Roxy is a hip-hop-inspired speakeasy hidden inside the Miss Fitz restaurant in Singapore’s Marina Bay. Photo: Facebook/Roxy

The drinks at Roxy are based on classics, but are given their own spin. Photo: Facebook/Roxy

Last Word has finessed tipples that were invented in the 1920s. Photo: Philipp Meier

Last Word’s eponymous cocktail is a classic, blending gin, maraschino liqueur, green chartreuse and lime. Photo: Instagram/@lastwordsg

Lifestyle

Food & Drink

Travel & Leisure

Peng Chau is full of spots serving everything from old-school dim sum to pizza. Be sure to visit at weekends when most restaurants are open


Peng Chau is full of spots serving everything from old-school dim sum to pizza. Be sure to visit at weekends when most restaurants are open.


What to eat on Hong Kong’s Peng Chau, a food-filled island that comes alive at weekends

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Peng Chau is full of spots serving everything from old-school dim sum to pizza. Be sure to visit at weekends when most restaurants are open

Peng Chau is full of spots serving everything from old-school dim sum to pizza. Be sure to visit at weekends when most restaurants are open