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Fashion
LifestyleFashion & Beauty

US$20 for a jacket, US$280 for tailoring. How demand for tailors is rising in the US

Demand for professional sewers, dressmakers and tailors is growing in the US. Problem is, many are retiring and there are few to replace them

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Tailor Kil Bae works on a garment at his shop in New York. He is part of a shrinking breed in the US, where sewers, dressmakers and tailors are ageing out of the workforce even as their services find new demand. Photo: AP
Tribune News Service

Hunched over a sewing machine, Kil Bae is in his tailor shop in Manhattan, New York, hemming a dress when a new customer stops by with a vintage Tommy Hilfiger jacket he wants taken in.

The modelling agent paid US$20 at a thrift store for his reversible bomber-style jacket, which is plaid on one side and red on the other. He is willing to spend US$280 to have it slimmed down.

Alteration requests with such a price disparity would have seemed odd a few years ago, the tailor says, but are helping to keep the bobbins bobbing at his one-man shop, 85 Custom Tailor.

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Bae carefully examines the cotton jacket before moving in to pin it, circling the customer like a sculptor with a chisel. He started training as a tailor at age 17, in his native South Korea. Now 63, he is part of a shrinking breed in the US, where professional sewers, dressmakers and tailors are ageing out of the workforce as their services find fresh demand.

Shoppers who grew up on disposable fast fashion are increasingly enlisting tailors and seamstresses to give off-the-rack purchases a custom fit or personal flair, to revive second-hand finds or to extend the lives of their wardrobes, according to fashion industry experts.

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Weight-loss drugs like Zepbound and Wegovy mean more Americans are seeking adjusted waistbands, tapered sleeves and other types of resizing, Bae says.

“I recommend this job to young people because this one cannot be AI’d,” Bae says, noting artificial intelligence is automating pattern making but so far cannot replicate a tailor’s handiwork.

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